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T-Series Clutch and Brake Master Cylinder Removal

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Tom_Odom

Jedi Hopeful
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Seems I always have more questions. I have not started removing the clutch and brake master cylinder yet but will be this afternoon or tomorrow.

Is this a big deal or maybe something simple? Does anyone have any pointers. Could use any advice.
Thanks,
Tom
 
You'll probably have some problems with the screws holding the cover in place...& there are some captive nuts up under the dash

I usually remove the entire pedal box as an assembly & then take the cylinders off it when I have it on my bench.
 
Thanks Tony,
Yes I do plan on removing the pedal box. Is it any worse than the heater box. It was quiet a chore getting out. I'm trying to clean the fire wall off in order to paint.

Shouldn't have any problem with nuts under dash. Dash is out.
Tom
 
You may have to drop one pedal from inside for the pedal box to come out...& don't forget to remove the pedal springs from underneath dash
 
[ QUOTE ]
You may have to drop one pedal from inside for the pedal box to come out...& don't forget to remove the pedal springs from underneath dash

[/ QUOTE ]

I would have thought that both pedals would have to come off. Sounds like it might be better than I thought. I can see that the springs would have to be removed.
Thanks,
Tom
 
As I recall (& its been awhile since I did it), the chrome cars don't require pedals to be removed to pull pedal box, but the rubber cars require the clutch pedal to drop down onto the floor before the pedal ox comes out.
 
When I did mine, I found it easier to take everything out clean it all up & replace. The pedals were surface rusty from leaking fluid. Much easier to do the MC's and then put back in the car.
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An "off the top of the nodge" comment: Break the hydraulic lines loose at the master cylinders before you remove the pedalbox mounting fasteners. Much easier than "wrasslin' a wet noodle" after the fact. And "line wrenches" are your friend here!
 
AMEN!
 
Tony, You were right about the screws. The one between the box and the fender was tough. The line going to the clutch was broken in the process of trying to remove line. I did remove both pedals as they were both held on by one common bolt that had to be removed. All in all things went pretty well.
Thanks,
Tom
 
Love it when a plan comes together!

Do you have a parts car to cannibalize for the clutch line?
 
[ QUOTE ]
Love it when a plan comes together!

Do you have a parts car to cannibalize for the clutch line?

[/ QUOTE ]
What!! You mean I have to buy another car for a clutch line? Well I guess that stands to reason. Besides I found that another part is missing also. On one of the SU Carbs. there is a plate that goes between the Carb. and the air filter that is missing. I can see that none of this is going to be easy. Do many cars come up for sale that are in varring stages of restoration that were in good running condition before the owner started working on it? I can see this could be very possible.
Tom
 
Plate between carb and air filter, really is this so.

I thought the spacers were between the carb and the intake manifold?

Asking because I just don't know on other than Sprites and Midgets.
 
If you don't have a parts car, I probably have them in my used inventory.
 
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If you don't have a parts car, I probably have them in my used inventory.

[/ QUOTE ]
Thanks Tony, Will try to attach picture. Jack might to take a look. Tony if you have one of these plates I think I could use one.
Tom
 

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Yeah, I need a photo of the part you're calling a 'plate' - can't visualize it.
 
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Yeah, I need a photo of the part you're calling a 'plate' - can't visualize it.

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Tony, I thought I had an attachment in the other post. Check the attachment.
Thanks,
Tom
 

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I would suggest that that is an aftermarket air filter baseplate.
 
Nope, Jack - that's the backplate adapter....works sort of like an ait horn....yep, I've got lots of them!

Sorry I didn't see the attachment first time.

& what year clutch line do you need?
 
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