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TR6 clutch adjustment

mike32cj

Freshman Member
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Hi all new to the site so here goes. This is my 2nd TR 6 had a '69 back in the '70s but had to sell it . Current one is '76 TR 6.
Parts installed at recommended shop. (4 stars whatever that means)Original problem was broken clutch fork and pin on cross shaft. Had new clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, cross shaft, plus new HD fork pin, and fork installed, also new phosphor-bronze TO bearing, new Borg-Beck pressure plate, and A.P. disk. Have adjustable Slave cylinder rod installed also.
Problem is that adjustable slave cylinder rod must be adjusted "out" so far to engage clutch properly that there is NO play at connection between the rod and cross shaft lever as recommended . Clevis pin is in center hole as normal. Slave is installed correctly. There is slight play at peddle to master connection even with new pin installed. I worry that the bearing is always engaged because of NO play at the cross shaft and slave cylinder rod, like riding the clutch. Causing premature wear on the TO bearing Thoughts??
Gear down and locked
Mike
 
Hello Mike,
Just some thoughts here, 1. a bit more bleeding? air can cause less travel at the slave. 2. Clutch pedal height, might have excess wear at the clevis pin. I once had to repair/ lengthen M/C push rod on my Tr for same problem. 3. Other thoughts (for clutch drag) did they bend the clutch plate when refitting G/box (easy to do) or were clutch plate splines tight on input shaft? (A little grease should always be used to lube these splines) Next but unlikely, faulty pressure plate?
Regards, Rob
 
To get play, you screw the fork to shorten the rod. In other words, you must adjust "in" to obtain clearance, not "out".

If you inadvertently described the situation to say the rod is too long to adjust in any more, then you will have to shorten the rod. This is common, in that once the fork pin shears, the fork rotates, and then owners frequently install a longer rod to take up the additional play in the system. Once you fix the fork, the replacement rod becomes too long to adjust.
 
Hello Mike,
To be clear, if you can adjust the rod to get some free play, will the clutch disengage completely?
But, if you can't shorten the rod to get free play, then what John says seems to be the problem.
Regards, Rob
 
In addition to the adjustable pushrod, is there an external spring (like on the TR2-TR4A)? If not the, internal spring in the slave cylinder will cause the clutch to self adjust regardless of how the push rod is adjusted.
Berry
 
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