• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.

    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

clutch adjustment on 79 midget?

pethia

Member
Offline
Anyone know if you can adjust the clutch on a 79 midget with a 1500 engine? I read Haynes manual and it did not mention this.
Thanks!
 
There isn't any adjustment. It is a hydraulic clutch. Things to check for are: missing clutch fork pivot pin, air in the clutch line, backed out slave (very unlikely unless locating bolt is missing), and weak master. Beyond that, you have to go inside to troubleshoot more.
JC
 
Clutch seems to be grabbing a bit close to the floor. The master clutch cylinder looks like it was replaced by PO. I was experiencing difficulty getting the shift into first and second after sitting in a lot of city traffic on a fairly hot day. Someone suggested replacing the hydraulic clutch fluid line from MC to C slave. I did this and bled out the fluid with through the slave cylinder. I have not had a problem yet, but haven't been in traffic either. I drained out all of the old fluid..it was very dirty. The new line looks to be not rubber, but a much stronger material.
 
It sounds like I have been having a similar problem. All gears grind a bit when shifting up or down. A slow up-shift and a double clutched down-shift help. Clutch has to be pressed all the way to the floor.

I would think that this is more likely due to the MC or SC - does'nt a worn clutch assy have the opposite effect - acting like the clutch is depressed even when all the way up?

Bob
 
Try this (but make sure the clutch fluid is full first):

Pump the clutch up and down fairly quickly about 5 or 6 times and then hold it down and try putting it in gear.
If it goes into gear easier, chances are, it's not fully bled.

These can be a bit tricky to bleed. Sometimes on mine, I loosen the coupling where the hose going into the clutch master cylinder (while someone holds down the clutch pedal) to get any air out of the upper part of the hose. Seems to help.

If you're sure it's fully bled, look at the clevis pin on the clutch pedal. It should fit into the hole in the clutch pedal fairly tightly.
Be sure the pin is not worn or the hole in the clutch pedal isn't elogated. Even a little slop here can translate into a lot of "lost motion".
 
I have a different prob but all the above guidance is good.

I think I may have a bent fork. Think I will try to find another or at least have someone outline one on a peice of paper and send it to me so I can check mine when it is next out.

Only thing I can think of at this time is a bent fork or the thiner throwout bearing I have or both. Oh well, the next engine pull when the weather cools off will tell the tail.
 
Back
Top