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Clunk noise

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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Ive been getting a clunk noise for a couple of year. It got worse on the 1800 miles to Rendezvous. While checking the rear shocks (replaced two years ago). On close inspection, one shock had both mounting holes oversize. They were not out of round and still had black paint in them. The bolts an both sets were only hand tight. Thus the noise. I am sending the one with oversize holes back for replacement. Finally, to my question. How do you keep those nuts tight? There were split circle lock washer on but it obviously does not good. The guys who rebuild them said tightening them every 10,000 miles as a routine. I'd be surprised if I had 5,000 on them and I had a second securing nut on them. Has anyone ever tried a split ring lock washer on both sides? Star washers?
 
My advise is to properly tighten them in the first place. No lock style washer is going to help keep them tight. The trick is to tighten them sufficiently in order to have enough tension (or stretch) in the bolts so they do not come loose. The problem is that there is so little clearance on the shock side to get a good grip with a wrench on the head of the bolt - and you cannot get a socket on it. I use bolts with internal wrenching for this application - the kind that use a large allen wrench in the bolt head to tighten. It will solve your problem.
 
AH TH, Just put a good SS Flat washer and lock washer on and tighten them up. Do not let the bolt turn while tightening OK--Keoke
 
Where would I find these internally hexed bolts? I find tightening these tricky too given the inability to get a good wrench on them.
rich
 
richberman said:
Where would I find these internally hexed bolts?
Click to expand...
They are fairly easy to find though I haven't used any on my cars (motorcycle is a different story)
93705ac2l.png
 
I used new bolts that would accept the nuts with the plastic insert that acts like a lock washer and have not had them loosen up in maybe a year or so. This was on a BN6 so not sure if the clearance is less on a BJ8. Used stainless steel on both for obvious reasons.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm thinking stainless steel flat washer and lock washers with some blue lock tight. I have a set of "tube" sockets (like those in the original tool kits) that should allow me to get into the tight space to get lots of tightening power. As to the hex bolts, I'm not sure the size of the head is large enough to apply pressure and if an Allen wrench will apply the amount of torque needed.
Again, thanks.
 
Stainless is easier to find. I was going to reuse the nuts and bolts. I have eight days until the shock comes back to decide on the hardware. I am in a rural area so the choices are few. We do have a Napa and a DIY store (like a Home Depot but smaller). Do you think the bolts could have stretched as I did have them very tight originally?
 
I work with s/s bolts every day and wouldn't have them on anything unless for corrosion resistance. They are extremely weak compared to the equivalent high-grade steel and generally only come in coarse thread. If assembled without nickle anti-seize they gall in an instant and proceed to permanently weld the nut to the thread followed by snapping off the bolt.

Capscrews (of recognised brand)are always the highest grade steel because it is required to keep the internal hex in the head from spreading during tightening.

Wire/split lockwashers are a liability in high load applications. Hardened washers are where its at.

I had the same loosening problem on my Ford which has the same style shocks and reassembled with high grade bolts that have about a half inch unthreaded shank. They haven't come undone again so far.

You could also try "regrip" on the mating flange surfaces. It is basically sandpaper grit and oil and will embed the grit into the metal as you tighten the bolts and help improve the friction between them.

Andy.
 
Andy

:savewave:

Tensile Strength Yield Strength
N/mm2 psi N/mm2 psi
2 none Steel 510 74,000 393 57,000
5 3 Steel 827 120,000 634 92,000
8 6 Alloy Steel 1030 150,000 896 130,000
SHCS none Alloy Steel 1240 180,000 965 140,000
18-8 none 302 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000
316 none 316 Stainless 690 100,000 448 65,000

Maybe you have been gettin some that China stuff---Keoke-- :laugh:
 
57_BN4 said:
I work with s/s bolts every day and wouldn't have them on anything unless for corrosion resistance. They are extremely weak compared to the equivalent high-grade steel and generally only come in coarse thread.
Click to expand...
ARP has stainless bolts in fine thread with a tensile strength of 180,000 PSI, better than grade 8.
 
You talkin' to me Rich? (you replied to yourself) https://arp-bolts.com/ You can find distributors on their website, or you could order direct from them I suppose. I happened to be in their neighborhood, so I just stopped by. :driving:
 
Yea ok there are more cleverer s/s fasteners out there but the generic bolt shop stuff is about as useful as cheese when it comes to high load applications. Our workshop regularly resounds to the 'dink' of me throwing failed s/s fasteners into the bin...

Andy.
 
tahoe healey said:
Great information but where can these choices be found?
Click to expand...

:savewave:


MCMaster Car---------------------- :laugh:
 
Unfortunately, the big box stores are killing off the good hardware stores. You'd think that with Home Depots huge hardware department, they'd have good hardware. More like a vast selection of crap.
 
GregW said:
Unfortunately, the big box stores are killing off the good hardware stores. You'd think that with Home Depots huge hardware department, they'd have good hardware. More like a vast selection of crap.
Click to expand...

Now, hang on a minute. Those are Quality Chinese Products, meeting their own high standards (which are beyond comparison, BTW).
Chinese Resourced Amalgamated Parts, that's the supplier.
C.R.A.P.
 
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