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TR4/4A Clitty Clack Latest on my TR4....

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F1LOCO

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Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

Well finally had some time this morning to get up under the TR4 and give it a good lube. However, upon inspection, the upper ball joints are busted and for some reason, I couldn't get any grease into the lower fittings (there are three towards the bottom right behind the rotor). Also, it looks like the front shocks are original? Good news, the rears were converted to shocks already. So figure an overhaul is in order. Also, the PO rigged the hub bolts with JBWELD on the front? Had one break loose taking the rim off. it was a PITA to get a wrench on it through the back with the wheel on, so I'm guessing probably rebuilt front hubs while I'm at it. Question on the hubs, I've got period correct minilights - 4 x 4.5" spacing on the lugs. Is this "standard" for a TR4 or is it "rigged" for a reason? He had hub centric rings behind the rims as well.

Any good kits out there with everything I'll need for the front end? Suggestions for upgrades? Thinking about upgrading to adjustable shocks all the way around. Why someone spent the time to take the car off frame and not replace the front suspension bits, I have no idea.
 
Re: Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

TRF sells what they call the Magic kit, which includes everything required to completely rebuild the susp. I used one on my TR3 and was very pleased. Not cheap but I caught one of their sales and it helped price wise.
 
Re: Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

F1LOCO said:
...the PO rigged the hub bolts with JBWELD on the front? Had one break loose taking the rim off. it was a PITA to get a wrench on it through the back with the wheel on, so I'm guessing probably rebuilt front hubs while I'm at it. Question on the hubs, I've got period correct minilights - 4 x 4.5" spacing on the lugs. Is this "standard" for a TR4 or is it "rigged" for a reason? He had hub centric rings behind the rims as well...
Click to expand...

Sounds like you're describing a spacer, possibly added to give some more clearance for those wheels. If so, he may have replaced the stock studs with something longer. How long are the studs you have on there now?
 
Re: Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

Hub Bolts and J B Weld should not be used in the same sentance. Are you saying that you're driving on bolts held in with J B Weld?
 
Re: Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

JerryVV said:
Hub Bolts and J B Weld should not be used in the same sentance. Are you saying that you're driving on bolts held in with J B Weld?
Click to expand...

Instead of the lugs being "pressed" in the hubs and/or welded, they are JBWELDED to presumably hold the head in place while the lugs are tightened.

I'd have to measure to check the actual length, but not the most brilliant idea someone ever had...just glad I found out b/f taking her on a long highway speed trip...
 
Re: Clitty Clack up-date on my TR4....

Not sure what you mean by the ball joints being busted, but if you're inclined to be working on the suspension, I'd try to keep to stock.

Just me, but I'd replace the ball joints, all of the upper and lower control arm bushings, check the spindles, wheel bearings, steering levers, etc. The front end kits from Moss or the others are fine. Also check the tie rods. They're cheap, so if you see any play, I'd replace them. Check the steering rack for lateral play or excessive wear.

I'd be uneasy about any JB Weld on the front end or wheel studs, and I'd try to figure out how to put that back to spec/original.

Also, just a bit uneasy with "shocks" on the rear. If they were properly mounted, then fine. If they have brackets mounted onto weak sheet metal points or other such issues, I'd actually prefer the original shock links and lever shocks. On the other hand, I do realize many folks love the shock replacements; it's just that the reports are spotty.

By the way--when I first did my front end I used the rubber bushings that came in the kit. Huge mistake. I had to replace those after just 8K miles. They were twisted and contorted. My poly bushings are much better. Aside from that, the standard kits are good.

Good luck and take your time.
 
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