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Choke or no choke?

JPSmit

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I was just looking through the manual for my car (76 California Car) On the dash it shows a choke cable BUT, when I disassembled my Carb, there was the little thing with the coiled spring, the heat mass assembly (Moss 366-190 ) So, do I have a choke or no? Stupid question I know but I am very confused

Thanks
 
Hopefully someone more knowledgable than I will chime in, but I thiiiiiink... the auto choke was always standard on California cars, but the manual choke was standard on all other North American imports until 77 or 78. Leyland probably did not bother to print an owners manual specific to the Cali car.
 
John-Peter - 1976 was just after the start of full blown emissions systems and unleaded fuel. There were 2 types of Midget engine systems in 1976. There was the 49 state version (higher compression and manual choke) and the California version (lower compression and automatic choke). From what I read the California version also had a catalytic converter in 1976. I own a 49 state 1976 Midget which has 55K miles and is almost 100% stock. It has a manual choke.

I don't know why your Midget has the manual choke cable and also an automatic choke. I lived in southern California for 30 years and we went through many different smog tests over the years. It is possible, and only a guess on my part, that someone brought a 49 state car into California and they had to install the automatic choke to pass the smog tests.

Hope this info helps.
 
I do know it is definately a California Car - I even have the dealer info somewhere around here
 
The bi-metal unit on the front side of the carb, (ZS 150), is simply an air path, and opens to allow additional air in when the carb body gets warm, no fuel/air mixture involved. The manual choke ZS body is slightly different than the auto choke versions body. There is a small vacuum port on the top for the auto choke. I've modified my auto choke ZS 150 to a factory manual choke, (starter box), but had to tap one of the mounting holes to install the starter box assembly, plug one of the auto choke mounting holes which went through into the bowl chamber, and plug the vacuum port with some high temp silicone. I also had to modify the linkage assembly. I bought an older ZS manual choke carb on Ebay for a few bucks, and I used the starter box, and had the parts needed to modify the throttle linkage assembly. Works GREAT! Pull the choke, and turn the key.....starts right up, and then I let off the choke a bit till she's warmed up, and it looks entirely factory stock, and good driveablity.

Don
 
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