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Choke cable system- mod

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AUSMHLY

AUSMHLY

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Am I the only one with a Healey that finds I have to put both feet against the dash, brace myself for the big pull, remember that the legs are more powerful than putting your back and arms into it, then grab the choke lever with both hands and pull man with all your might. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif

I'm sure I'm not the first to ponder this, and not the first to think of a smoother system. Being a mountain bike rider, I've upgraded my bike with a very slick cable system by Gore. Here's why their system works so nicely.

The stainless cable has a clear sheath on it. Then that feeds through another sheath, yellow. Then that feeds through a cable tube made of many strands of small stainless cables. That tube has another sheath inside and outside, both black.

End product, very slick and smooth operating. And does a pretty good job of keeping the inner cable free of dirt and water.

So I pulled my Healey choke system apart and with a little modification, I can change over to the Gore system.

The inner most Gore stainless steel cable is about half the diameter of the Healey cable. But it has a lot of protection around it and makes it feel very secure.

Do you think that would be an issue, cable thickness, as in strength needed to pull the two carbs? If less resistance, then it equals or actually becomes a problem free, easy system. Could that actually happen to a Healey? /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Attached is a breakdown photo.

First is the Gore system. Stainless cable, over that the clear sleeve, then the yellow sleeve, then the many stainless cables as the carrying tube surrounded by a black sleeve both inside and outside.

Second is the black outer protection tube that goes over the Healey silver outer cable. That black cover will also fit over the Gore black outer protection tube above it. How about that. Would make it look stock in the engine compartment.

Third is the Healey choke cable housing.

Fourth is the Healey choke inner system. You can see the small difference between the bare Healey stainless cable and the top Gore stainless cable.

The swap out of the two cable in the engine compartment is straight forward, no mods needed.

There would be some mods needed for that cable starting from the dash. Remove the silver outer cable at the end of the solid shaft. It will not be needed for the Gore outer cable will replace that. Being the actual choke knob has the stainless cable hard wired, simply cut where needed after it comes out of the solid shaft and butt connect the Gore cable there.

The entire system then would be Gore, which is protected against the elements better, and has almost no resistance.

OK, who wants to be the first to ask what the heck I'm smokin.

What the heck, I'll be the first. (Disclamer here, as written in the instruction, you'll see in my photo) "is recommended the RideOn Derailleur Cable System be installed by qualified bicycle mechanics only.."
Roger
 
I can't imagine what difference it makes what you pull on your choke with /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif as long as it works correctly. I took mine all apart because the carb levers were not moving simultaneously with choke pull and the cable was all frayed at the remote control cable block. I got a new cable assembly but didn't like it so unsoldered the cable from the pull knob resoldered it to my old knob /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/eek.gif and then re-routed all that from the dash to the engine so there were no kinds or contortions. I very lightly oiled the system and secured the cable sheaths (both ends) with tiny tie straps to prevent them moving at all when the system was pulled after having adjusted their attachments to the carb levers so they moved exactly together. The result was my choke setup now moves very smoothly with very minimal effort, but I had to put small springs at the carb levers to insure that they returned fully to "off" when the choke was fully pushed in. My point is the stock setup can work very easily and smoothly IMHO but the setup you describe certainly would work very well too I'm sure. Mileage may vary, etc /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
In case anyone is wondering. No kinks or tight bends in my current system. Sprayed TriFlow in the original cables and still find a lot of resistance. I think my system simply is old and needs to be replaced. Rather than order a replacement system, I though of the Monty Python phase: And now for something completely different /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif Roger
 
Being myself a graduate from the Ministry of Silly Walks I certainly understand the need for a Monty Python moment /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
No choke cables installed in my Healey, nor is there a pull knob on the dash. I couldn’t find an aftermarket pull knob that looked original enough for the dash, so everything downstream of that was never installed.

AUSMHLY – Thank you for the write-up on using a GORE Derailleur cable and housing for an AH 3000 manual choke. It’s possible that the inner core is Teflon and self lubricating – so in effect the system is sealed and no/low maintenance. The cable you installed as described, should last a long time. If GORE has a similar system for brakes, then it's likely to have larger diameter cable than used for Derailleurs. This would be good for those needing a Heavy Duty manual choke.

VELOX – I want to use the original choke-pull knob that came with the car but the cable is too short to pass through the firewall and connect to the T-Block. Was it easy to unsolder and replace the cable on the knob? I’m interested since this was tried once before without success…perhaps the soldering gun is not hot enough. Should a brazing torch be used? A butt connector may not be secure enough, could interfere with the cable-slide operation and may not allow the choke-pull knob to return flush to the dash. Might as well use a clothes pin… GONZO
 
Gonzo- I clamped the midpoint of the shaft to prevent some of the heat transfer up towards the knob then used a steady heat (Propane torch) to the end of the shaft where the cable inserted. A heavy duty soldering gun did not loosen mine at all. With steady pull on the cable while the Propane was on it eventually it loosened up and pulled out. Same thing on retrieving the cable from the repro (Moss) part I got. I did not think I could adequately hold the new cable set into the old shaft space with solder so I cleaned the shaft out real well with a wire wheel and the used the old Super Remedy to join cable to shaft (NO not duck tape) YES you guessed it - JB Weld. That stuff will hold anything it seems. I let it set overnight and the next day it was solid and I used a Dremel and small abrasion wheel to shave down the JB from the shaft groove so it would easily slip in the original part that mounts on the dash. I'm sure there would be a better way to get a new cable on the old shaft setup but this way worked for me. Has remained solidly connected for about 6 months now /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Well Velox, I used virtualy the same technique except; 1] the cable can be forcefully extracted from the shaft by clamping the cable tightly in the vise then force the shaft over 90 Deg.This is done multiple times until the old cable is freed.2] the shaft is driled using a 1/16" drill.3] a standard bicycle brake cable is procured and tinned inserted into the drilled hole and soldered tight.4] using a small punch the assembly is crimped too. Thats it!.Works a treat---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
-- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif--Hey Roger!!

-- What on earth you been smokin??. They can only be installed by a qualified bicycle mechanic--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Roger,
I did have the same problem on my 65 until I replaced
the upper cable assembly ( dash pull/lock knob to firewall connecing block. The one I used was from Moss. The new one also locks open in place with very little effort.
The old one would no longer stay locked open as well as it was very hard to pull out as you have described. If your substitue doesn't work out, get the one that Moss sells.
 
Here's yet another question. In my photo, 2nd item down from the top is a black plastic sheld that slips over/around the stainless steel tube.

It was only on my two carb cables, yet it may not be correct. Are the two carb cables in the engine compartment suppose to have the black sheilds? Same photo attached here.
 
Who knew? Choke cable locks open! All these years, knee braced against the dash, hauling on the choke knob until the engine started firing on at least four, maybe five cylinders.

How does one engage and disengage this lock? No kidding, I never knew this convenience was built in.
 
Roger,Roger,

Yes the choke cables in the engine compartment have a black plastic outer sheathing like your photo shows.

The original choke knob locks when you turn it about 1/8 turn in the clockwise direction (and you disengage by turning slightly CCW). You can therefore set or lock the choke at any point from off to full on and keep it from being closed by the choke return springs. Some (maybe all) of the aftermarket choke cables don't have this great feature and many people use a cloths pin or other inelegant device to hold the choke open /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif
 
--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Hi Gonzo, go back and read my post on how to install a new primary choke cable into an existing pull knob.---Keoke
 
Thats true John. However, the choke will lock any time the knob is turned CW or CCw from the no lock position.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
Keoke .. my choke doesn't want to turn as far or lock as well in the CCW direction so I figured that was part of the design. Could be that it is just 44 yrs old, has seen a bit of wear and needs TLC /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/angel.gif
 
HiJohn, Prolly so depending on which rotation the PO used the most will determine which side experienced the most wear.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
Keoke - Thank you for the install information; it was very descriptive. Going to give it a try this weekend.

On a related subject, I'll be helping a gentleman, whom I met at a local LBC show, revive his very original AH BJ8. We'll first get the engine to fire and run, then make further assessments from there. My wife thinks I'm nuts for taking this on but I see it as an opportunity to get another Healey on the road and make a new friend. As it turns out we live about 5 miles from eachother - practically neighbors. I'll share updates and perhaps pics later... GONZO
 
John,

My old one was both hard to pull out and it didn't want to turn far enough to stay locked. When I took it apart,
I was able to see that the " not turning " was being caused by the metal sleeve over the end of the cable not turning easily inside the outer metal piece that fits into the dash, ( the two bottom parts in Roger's last attachment). Since they both appeared worn, I replaced the entire assembly with one from Moss. It is real smooth and it locks when twisted in either direction. I tried to fix the original by adding an additional washer between the nut and the dashboard to try and hold it in place so it wouldn't twist but it didn't help. The old one was just worn out.
 
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