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Chip off the crank pulley

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Bruce Edge

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Hey Guys, some advice will be greatly appreciated. While letting my 100-4 down with floor jack, a block of wood flew back and hit the crank pulley. It knocked off a piece on the back side flange. It is a good size (quater Moon) shaped piece. The pulley runs the 3/4" belt.
First question: If I drive the car like this do you think there could be a blance problem?
Second question: Can I change out the pulley with motor in car?
With the piece missing on the back side and the 3/4" belt, I don't think there is any problem with belt comming off or belt tearing up.

Thank you,
Bruce
 
I had a similar piece missing on my 100's crank pulley and I was successful in replacing it while the motor was in the car. Whether it caused a balance problem or not I was not able to tell.
 
Unless the internals have been balanced along with the clutch cover , it won't make a big difference in my opinion. Any replacement clutch cover would be off much more than you chipped off the pulley.
 
Just replaced the timing cover seal on my BJ8 which, of course, required removing the damper. I dropped the damper and knocked, yes, a quarter moon-shaped piece off the pulley (it surprised me that the pulley is cast iron). Since the damper has nearly 200K miles on it I decided to have it rebuilt; I've seen what happens when the rubber lets go and a damper comes apart on another car (it's not pretty). Damper Dudes brazed the chip back on, cleaned up some nicks on the damper and rebuilt the damper with new riubber 'buffer,' for about $160 inc. tax and shipping (one day turnaround). Note the new rubber will be recessed instead of 'proud,' which could be noted in concours: https://www.damperdudes.net/

In order to get the damper off you have to raise the engine to clear the lower front cross-member, at least for a 6-cyl car but probably for a 4-cyl as well. This isn't too bad a job--worst part is getting the radiator out and back in--unbolt the engine from the motor mounts and detach the throttle linkage (I also undid the transmission tie rod, but that's probably not strictly necessary). I lifted the engine with a floor jack with a 2x4 on top--bad idea, the 2x4 left an impression in the pan (ended up using a larger flat piece of wood that contacted all 4 corners of the pan). The hard part will be getting the large nut off the end of the crank. I ended up buying a HF 3/4" impact wrench and (non-impact) socket. The wrench is too big to fit between the engine and front cross-bracing on my BJ8, so I had to go at the nut at an angle, which damaged the nut. Bought a new one--$45!--which is good quality EXCEPT it is threaded its whole length inside, which concerns me that the threads may have bottomed before the damper was fully seated (the original nut is beveled on the inside to prevent this). Note I have since seen a 'compact' 3/4" impact wrench from Klutch which might fit, and as the nut is 1 & 11/16" inch there are impact sockets for a Dodge hub nut that should work.

While I was at it, I checked the water pump and as it had a slight bit of play and I'm going on a long road trip I replaced it with a rebuilt. You might as well pull the timing cover while you're at it, to inspect the chain, gears and chain damper, and replace the seal. I do think, but can't say for sure, that a ragged missing piece on the pulley could eventually tear up the belt.
 
I don't think there is any problem with belt comming off or belt tearing up.

Thank you,

I would not guess about potential failures I would change the pulley:peaceful:
 
Bruce Edge said:
Hey Guys, some advice will be greatly appreciated. While letting my 100-4 down with floor jack, a block of wood flew back and hit the crank pulley. It knocked off a piece on the back side flange. It is a good size (quater Moon) shaped piece. The pulley runs the 3/4" belt.
First question: If I drive the car like this do you think there could be a blance problem?
Second question: Can I change out the pulley with motor in car?
With the piece missing on the back side and the 3/4" belt, I don't think there is any problem with belt comming off or belt tearing up.

Thank you,
Bruce
Click to expand...

Let's do a JB Weld experiment!!! Ok, just kidding. BUT, those can be welded back on. With actual weld or brazing. You would still have to pull the pulley.
 
No need to move the engine or anything else for the 100 other than removing the radiator. Getting the nut off is another matter. I may have ground mine off - I don't remember. Good excuse to buy a Milwaukee 5" angle grinder, my favorite tool.
 
Thanks for the replies. After running the car today I think it will be ok to leave the crank pulley alone. My big concern was the growling nose I had not heard before the chip accured. After isolating the noise I found it to be the water pump bearing. Initiaially when checking the pulley I tighten up the fan belt which apparently ampilifying the bearing nose.
Thanks to all,
Bruce
 
I had the generator pulley chip on my 100, it was that way when I got it, sounds similar to your crank pulley chip, it made a whistling sound which varied with engine speed, but other than that never seemed to cause any problem. After a bit I got tired of the whistling sound and did in fact do a JB weld repair, sort of molded it on the pulley and then carefully sanded it smooth. It held for years (don't remember exactly how long) until it broke when I was taking the generator apart for service, I then got a good used off of e-bay.

Yes can be done with the engine in place, but you have to pull the radiator. My crank nut was also stuck on but good, I took a week off of work to pull the tranny and get it rebuilt and also replace the timing tensioner chain and do various bits of work on the car. I think I spent half the week trying to get the crank nut off. Breaker bars with pipe extensions didn't work, nor did heat, and in fact I cracked the square drive off of a 1/2" SK Tools (not cheap) breaker bar in trying to remove it. Also tried an impact wrench, ultimately bought a very large combination spanner, with a length of maybe 14-16" inches, it had much less give than the somewhat flexible breaker bar, a few blows on the spanner with a wire wheel hammer and it popped loose.
 
Hey glemon, The trouble you had is what I don't feel like getting in to at this time (if it is not going to cause any problems). In fact I found a new pulley on the shelf. I worked on this car all this past winter, so now I want to drive it. I beleive if it ain't broke don't fix it.(until you have down time). I can just see the pulley and nut job not going smooth and it screwing up driving time for weeks.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
Well, you could just pull the belt off clean the pulley in place, and mold on some JB Weld to get rid of the edge and close it off a bit.
 
Bruce

Do the job properly, the missing quarter will have an effect. Remove your starter motor and use a chunk of steel angle to lock the fly wheel, I drilled and bolted mine in on one of the starter motor bolt holes, you can also use a bent valve if you have one, that also passes through a bolt hole.

Take the grill and the radiator out and ease the engine up as previously described - a couple of extension bars, a big socket and a 3 or 4 foot long breaker bar and you are away.

:cheers:

Bob
 
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