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Checking distributor shaft wobble

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Do any of the British parts retailers sell the Ignitor II? I haven't seen it in the Vicky-Brit nor Roadster Factory catalogs, and couldn't find a reference to it on mossmotors.com. An internet search didn't turn up much. How about places like Advance Auto Parts?

The Ignitor II looks to be more advanced than the other one, and might be worth the money.

Thank you,
 
Search "Retro Rockets" for the Ignitor.----Keoke
 
Will the Hitachi conversion fit either a 58 TR3 or 79 Midget, or is there a similar conversion? I searched the Triumph thread and didn't receive an hits.

Thanks, Phil
 
I THINK the Hitachi conversion will fit the TR3 and late Midget... but I'm not sure. You need to borrow a Lucas 23D4, 25D4, or 45D4 dizzy from a BMC/BL A- or B-series engine and compare it physically to the dizzys from your car. The later Midget and the TR3 are both Triumph engines so their drive dogs will probably be different than the BMC units but may still work if the overall shaft length is right. If you can make a 23D4, 25D4, or 45D4 dizzy fit in those Triumph engines you'll be able to make the Hitachi work.

The best online site for Pertronix is Retro Rockets as Keoke said. I have yet to find a vendor with better pricing.

Ignitor II is a more sophisticated product. Is it available for these distributors now? The most significant improvement I know of regarding Ignitor II is that the revised circuitry no longer limits the amount of time the ignition can be left on without the engine running. With the original Ignitor module you must limit this to no more than a couple of minutes. The only minor downside to the Ignitor II is that it no longer supports zero speed firing. What this means is, you can not static time your car with Ignitor II. You have to set the timing close enough to start and then set the dynamic timing with a light. With the original Ignitor you can static time but you have to limit the time you spend setting the timing to less than two minutes.
 
According to retrorockets.com, the Ignitor II is not available for the 25D4 distributor. That's the one in my car. But they are available for the 45D4 depending on which cam it has.

Both systems are supposed to work with either a factory coil or their proprietary coil, so those of us running Lucas coils should be fine, but the lower prices on that site might make it worthwhile to upgrade. They're about $10 cheaper for the ignitor than the next cheapest vendor.
 
I heard from Marcel this a.m. He apologized for the broken links off his web site(s). He said he was trying to move everything from four different servers to one and got tied up with other projects. Fixing it is now in a "one of these days" modes.

Marcel said the only working link for the Hitachi conversion isn't on one of his sites but can be found at:
https://www.niksula.cs.hut.fi/~mdobruck/siililand/mini/diy/alien/dizzy/

I hope this helps anyone interested in the Hitachi dizzy conversion.
 
Changing the bushing is easy. And you know where to get them. A pertronix depends on the air gap of the reluctor. A wobbly shaft will give you a variation in air gap, and potentially the same problems. The Crane is less problematic for that reason.

Peter
 
[ QUOTE ]
Changing the bushing is easy. And you know where to get them. A pertronix depends on the air gap of the reluctor. A wobbly shaft will give you a variation in air gap, and potentially the same problems. The Crane is less problematic for that reason.

Peter

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif Peter C that is not the case.there is no airgap adjustment for the Pertronics system,and it contains no reluctor.However, it will clear up dwell angle changes due to shaft wobble.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif
 
Anyone ever fitted a crank triggered ignition system with individual coilpacks for each plug? Heck this is the 21st century, who needs a distributor anymore. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Changing the bushing is easy. And you know where to get them. A pertronix depends on the air gap of the reluctor. A wobbly shaft will give you a variation in air gap, and potentially the same problems. The Crane is less problematic for that reason.

Peter

[/ QUOTE ]

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nonono.gif Peter C that is not the case.there is no airgap adjustment for the Pertronics system,and it contains no reluctor.However, it will clear up dwell angle changes due to shaft wobble.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

[/ QUOTE ]
As far as I know, the Pertronix uses rotating magnets & a Hall-Effect sensor. The air gap is about .085". This setup is very insensitive to gap changes, is totally insensitive to vertical position variations, & not subject to optical shutter contamination. Don't know about the Crane.
D
 
The Crane systems I've installed are shutter types, therefore subject to dirt/dust contamination but shaft wobble likely would be less a problem for them than a points set-up. Hall Effect system would be the best avenue... or change out the bushings and keep going with points.

But I'm one who likes to SEE electrons moving in a CAR. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
Dave and Keoke, I was recalling an article or tech note in one of Moss' British Motoring mags, where they were very specific about the Pertronix not being a viable solution to a bad bushing, but that the Crane optical unit was not susceptiple. The article was maybe 2 years ago, but I can't dig it up, and so I am defenceless. You win, but I have my doubts. ;-) Regardless, replacing the bushing probably takes less time than installing either unit. Peter
 
I still say a hall efect magnetic crank sensor, with a coilpack would be the best way to go - but it might be expensive in aftermarket application... As there has to be a computer for the timing that must be programable for each individual engine, depending on wht factory or modified level it is at. I'd still love to have a 4 port x-flow head, a crank triggered programmable timeing ignition system, and a programable multiport fuel injection system for my MGB. That would make it as 21st century as it gets. But in the mean-time the normal carb system is adequite.
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/savewave.gif

Peter C them folks up in Goleta rarely know what they are talking about.I assure you the Pertronics will correct shaft wobble-Trust me!. QH! Any day you wanna race changing bushings vesus installing a pertronics let me know but Chu gotta make it worth my time,--Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cowboy.gif
 
Yep Dave, that is correct. However, the air gap is closer to 0.030" a small platic guage is included in some to check this out. Even so it is not adjustable.---Fwiw---Keoke
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dave and Keoke, I was recalling an article or tech note in one of Moss' British Motoring mags, where they were very specific about the Pertronix not being a viable solution to a bad bushing, but that the Crane optical unit was not susceptiple. The article was maybe 2 years ago, but I can't dig it up, and so I am defenceless. You win, but I have my doubts. ;-) Regardless, replacing the bushing probably takes less time than installing either unit. Peter

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Peter,
Independent tests have shown that in the range of .040" to .080" magnet to sensor gaps, the Pertronix dwell varies around 0.09 degrees per .001" of gap change. This would be 0.7 degrees for .008" gap change. Not zero, but very little change due to gap change/rotor wobble.

The optical trigger may have less problem with gap change than the above numbers, I can't say. The disadvantage to optical triggering is that the shutter slot has to be relatively wide to prevent contamination on the shutter from blocking the trigger. The wider the slot the less PRECISE the timing. Obviously, the slots must be kept clean or timing will vary.

I feel that the Pertronix Hall-Effect sensor & magnet combination are more accurate & less trouble prone than the optical triggers. I'm also not sure about Moss objectivity in this marketing situation. You must be pretty fast at replacing & fitting a new shaft bushing.

Keoke,
The Pertronix gap is not at all critical. On some distributor applications, the gap runs to .080.
D /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Dave and Keoke, I was recalling an article or tech note in one of Moss' British Motoring mags, where they were very specific about the Pertronix not being a viable solution to a bad bushing, but that the Crane optical unit was not susceptiple. The article was maybe 2 years ago, but I can't dig it up, and so I am defenceless. You win, but I have my doubts. ;-) Regardless, replacing the bushing probably takes less time than installing either unit. Peter

[/ QUOTE ]
Hi Peter,
You must be pretty fast at replacing & fitting a new shaft to:


Beat Keoke--- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/lol.gif
 
I bet we can find a dozen or so old ones so you guys can build an average, after all just one would not be fair. LOL
 
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