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Chassis to Scuttle - Gasket - Filler - Foam?

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mjobrien

mjobrien

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Any advice on what to use between the chassis and the Scuttles? The body shop I’m working with is getting ready for final assembly – (Can’t believe it) and we are not sure what to use.

Thanks in advance,
Michael.
 
Hi not clear on your request can you clarify it??

Do you mean the Shroud to scuttle seal???
 
Yeah, I'm a little confused too. The scuttle gets welded to the frame, unlike other cars where the body is bolted on.
 
Yeah Michael, that is what I suspected. I do not Know the name of the product . However you can tell the shop to use the caulk adhesive that is used to install stiffening in Hoods and trunk lids of Japanese cars.--Keoke
 
Hello mjobrien,

sikaflex is really good.Please find the attached information sheet:
https://chindustry.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=578

I would like to bond my shroud with sikaflex 221. Here is the technical data sheet :

https://chindustry.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=567
Also you can use in my opinion the 252 material :

https://chindustry.webdms.sika.com/fileshow.do?documentID=123

Both materials are flexible, but I dont want to separate the parts in the future....

Bye michel- who has to do some other things before I bond my shroud....
 
Most automotive paint supply shops sell 3M seam caulk. It is black, tar like material that doesn't harden and can be shaped. It comes in flat sheets that are pre cut to pull off strings about .25 inches x .25 inches by a foot long. They can be stacked or thinned depending on the gap to fill. Quite stickey. I even was able to pull my shroud off after installing it with the stuff (long story).
 
That is caulk it is not an adhesive it is essential that the shroud be bonded to the scuttle to reduce it's contribution to scuttle shake in the car. Additionaly, a bond should be made at the chassis brace to shroud interface located just in front of the radiator.--Keoke
 
Maybe the use/non use of the flexible bonder would go some way to explaining why the 100/4's had a propensity to crack in the internal corners of the front shroud
 
Scuttle shake is due to the lack of torsional stiffness of the frame. I'd rather have a tad of flexibility and perhaps dampen the movement a bit, as opposed to ridgidly bond the soft aluminum shroud to the scuttle in an effor to stop this tendancy, and perhaps promote cracking. I though about it long and hard, based on how I drive. If scuttle shake is a major concern I'd attack it by stiffening the frame with the various mods that others have made, rather than use what is really only a cowl to do it.
 
Hi Zblu, I do not know but if you find a Healey where the factory seal has mot dried out and broken loose you will require the use of an oxidised flame using a torch to remove it . At the front of the shroud often times the attaching bolts have also chewed their holes out in the shroud because the original bond there has failed too.---Keoke
 
Perfect, I'll give the spec sheet to the shop and see what they come up with. He does have some nice 2 part heavy foam used for hoods and other multi laminated parts and we were thinking of using.
I'll let all know how it goes and should have pic's of a pained 55 in a few weeks!

Thanks,
Michael.
 
Make sure the shop fits your windscreen assembly before they go much further with the restoration. Looking from the front of the car, the gap between the windscreen frame and the cowl should be equal on each side. If it gets bonded on before a check is done, then you have no way to tweek the fitting.

Also the rubber seal along the bottom of the windscreen frame must be put in with the upturned side facing down,,,,yes it sound like this would be the wrong way.

Look at a few photo's and if you see a rippling on each side or one side of the seal as it follows the rounded edge of the cowl it's been put on the frame wrong.

Johnb
 
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