• Hey Guest!
    If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource and want to ensure we can stay online...
    Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)

Changing a speedo cable on an MG Maestro 2.0EFi


Freshman Member
[FONT=&quot]Ever since owning the car since 2016 I’ve had a ‘dancing’ speedometer needle, I had that on my 3 Montegos back in the 1990s so I wasn’t really that worried but guessed one day I’d need to fix it.

1 week ago whilst driving for about 30 minutes at around 60mph (100kph) the needle went straight up about 120+mph and a screaming noise came from under the bonnet, I pulled over, stopped, then drove off again, the noise had stopped. I did it again a few times with the same results.

So after a quick ask around, the advice was to change the speedo cable. The original part is DRC9133, long gone and never to be found (it’s a LHD car), the AR EPC says you can use GSD423/ADL2768 instead. Already 2 years ago after some serious searching and I found one on German Ebay and duly purchased it for possible future use.

I consulted an AR Repair Manual and the Autodata book and it looked fairly straight forward. So this is how I did it.

  1. Disconnect the battery and unscrew the speedo cable attached to the transducer. This is quite tricky, there’s not much space, I used a Ridgid Robogrip to get it loose then after some fiddling about with my fingers unthreaded the burled knob with my hand.
  2. Inside the car now. Unscrew the 2 screws securing the facia plate carefully edge it out and unplug the clock. Then unscrew the 5 screws holding the dash face to the dashboard.
  3. Back under the bonnet now. Remove grommet from body and push the cable a small amount back into the car.
  4. Back in car again. Very carefully pull the dash face towards you, it doesn’t come out completely but just enough to get your hand behind it and pull the cable out of the back of the dash face (you need to squeeze the nylon plug – it’s marked).
  5. I tied some old thin wiring to the end of the cable so that when I pulled the cable out of the car the wire would follow and then I could attach the new cable to it and do the reverse to get the new cable back into the car. Some wiggling is needed to do that.
  6. Connect by pushing in the new cable onto the protruding plastic pipe on back of dash face. Then place the dash face back to where it can be screwed back but do not put screws in just yet.
  7. Out to the car. Slowly and gently pull the cable to the transducer to reconnect it, only in my case to notice that the new cable was shorter than the original. So I had to thread it under the servo vacuum hose and air hose (see photos). Tighten finger tight the burled knob. Replace air hose.
  8. Back to car. Screw dash face tight with the 5 screws, reconnect clock and replace the facia plate and tighten with the 2 small screws (at this stage I replaced the disappeared foam insulation strips, left and right)
  9. Check everything is where is should be and no unused parts lying about once you’re happy everything’s done, replace battery cable and tighten up.
The next step is to take a test drive, I was curious knowing the difference in cable length and having a different position. I’ve kept the original speedo cable to use as a template if need be. Anyway all was well, goodbye ‘dancing needle’, although the speed shown on the speedometer is the same as before, about 5-6% higher than actual speed.

In all it took about 2 hours, I suggest if have to do this job, be patient, work slowly and methodically and check and recheck.

Good luck


Jedi Trainee
Country flag
If it’s like a Triumph cable, grease it prior to install. I installed one without doing it, and was back a week later doing it over, with grease.