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Change wheels with hubs?

MarkA

Jedi Trainee
Offline
My hub splines appear to be wearing. Over the last week, the car has developed a clunk when starting and stopping rapidly. I checked a couple of the hubs and the splines have almost lost their squared-off look. So I believe it is time to change the hubs.

The splined interior of the wheels don't look that bad. Still fairly squared. They are newer (maybe 10 years old) 72 spoke "somethings".

So... Are the wheels normally harder than the hubs so the hubs take the wear, or ??? Should I replace the rims and hubs together? Eventually I had planned to replace the rims since the chrome on the spokes is peeling. The tires need to be replaced soon also.

What do you all think?

Thanks,
Mark
 
Head right over to British Wire wheel or Hendrix and get a whole new set; Tyres, Wheels And Hubs. You are living on borrowed time. OH! be sure the wheels say "Dayton"----Fwiw--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/yesnod.gif
 
That's what I thought. I stopped driving the car once I checked and found the splines in that condition. All new setup is like 10 bucks, right??? :smile:

Thanks!
 
MarkA said:
That's what I thought. I stopped driving the car once I checked and found the splines in that condition. All new setup is like 10 bucks, right??? :smile:

Thanks!

Yeah that ought to make the down payment! At least they know you be serious. :D--Keoke-

P.S. Get a new set of rear hub nuts too!
 
MarkA said:
Over the last week, the car has developed a clunk when starting and stopping rapidly.

Change hubs and wheels? Most likely that's it. With the wheels in the air, do the wheels feel loose as you work them fore and aft? Can you feel less movement if you hammer the knockoffs a little tighter? If you put a thin sheet of shim stock (alum. coke can material will work)on the splines does it get rid of the movement/clunk?

But it could be something else, such as loose hub mounting bolts .. rear end .. something loose in the suspension/steering .. or that keg in the boot that you forgot to take back. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif

If you do determine it's the hubs/wheels it is highly recommended to replace both since replacing only one side with accelerate the wear on the new parts.

BTW, I think most/all the new chrome wheels come with stainless spokes because of strength and appearance problems with chrome spokes.
 
anthony7777 said:
marka, dont believe him! there be nuthin serious about $10.00

Sure tis 7777's ifin you ain't got it!----Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/banana.gif
 
keoke, if he be buyin what ya say hes gonna need it and lots more, oh dont forget the one ya need ta keep the boot warm. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
But John,

I couldn't be the keg 'cause it's permanently mounted. And if I take that out, then the tap doesn't pour no more... :smile:
 
MarkA said:
if I take that out, then the tap doesn't pour no more... :smile:
If there is a way, I’m sure you’ll figure it out. Necessity being a Mother and all. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thirsty.gif
 
anthony7777 said:
keoke, if he be buyin what ya say hes gonna need it and lots more, oh dont forget the one ya need ta keep the boot warm. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif


----Naw he don't need that one he got a keg of beer prmanently mouted in da boot! That keep everything nice and warm.- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grin.gif
 
I had the clunk TOO, here is what I did. Jacked up the rear, applied the E-brake and watched the end-play in the hub extension nuts. Removed the wheel and hub extensions, lubed the nut tapered seat torqued them back down and the clunk/end-play went away. I then ordered a new set of nuts and observed the seat between the new nuts and the bevel on the hub extensions to be proper. Net-Net new nuts solved my problem. You might try binding all play out of the spline with the suggestions above to see if the clunk changes with the e-brake on before going after the extension nuts.
 
Hi, it's my first post so yes I'm new. I just purchased a '64 MK III which still has the the original painted spoke rims. I too have been contemplating buying the setup from British Wire Wheel, rims, tires, hubs. A mechanic in my area said I shouldn't even bother just puting new tires on the old rims as the are 40 years old and everything wears out. As my first major investment in the car, should I pony up for the tire/rim/hub combo. Aren't I looking at something like $2K?
 
I recon Crya, how you be getting pretty close there. But ask for a package deal & price all they can say is no. But I bet they will give you one--Keoke- /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif
 
mark,or anyone else, over the weekend i was informed that there is a set of (4)"new" dayton 72 spoke wire wheels mit das "verteshteeens" mounted for sale for $1100.00 call joe cuto at (718) 762-7878. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
Well why you gota run yu mout an tell everyone else bout em too, shoulda just sent me a PM. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif That's a good price thanks for sharing the information on the forum. Hope some forum member can get them---Keoke
 
Keoke said:
Well why you gota run yu mout an tell everyone else bout em too, shoulda just sent me a PM. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif That's a good price thanks for sharing the information on the forum. Hope some forum member can get them---Keoke
i was hoppin ya wuz takin onnna ya loooong naps /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif ya id like ta see one of our guys/gals get em. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
When I got my Healey the first big expenditure was a switch from 48 spoke wiresto 60, the splines were shot and the spokes were loose on the wheels.

I got new wheels and hubs for the rear, and good used wheels for the front.

My theory, the rears get it both ways (acceleration, brakes)
the fronts just the brakes, no real siginificant back and forth pressure, unless you like to go fast in reverse and slam on the brakes.

So far all has been good with this solution, no returning clunky clunk going on about 7 years.

Just an alternative to somewhere between the nearly two grand replace everything solution and the aluminum shims.
 
glemon said:
When I got my Healey the first big expenditure was a switch from 48 spoke wiresto 60, the splines were shot and the spokes were loose on the wheels.

I got new wheels and hubs for the rear, and good used wheels for the front.

My theory, the rears get it both ways (acceleration, brakes)
the fronts just the brakes, no real siginificant back and forth pressure, unless you like to go fast in reverse and slam on the brakes.

So far all has been good with this solution, no returning clunky clunk going on about 7 years.

Just an alternative to somewhere between the nearly two grand replace everything solution and the aluminum shims.
clemon, ah so your front wheels/tires always miss the pot holes but your rear set does? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/whistle.gif
 
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