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Yesterday afternoon, I took the TR250 out for a spin after making some minor adjustments to the carbs and timing (still trying to get the best combination right-may be going to the dyno tuners next week). Anyways, I heading home after hard driving on some back country roads when the car backfired like a .30-06 going off and the motor stalled. Couldn't get it re-started. While I'm on the cell-phone with my wife to get the number of a local wrecker service, my brother pulls up behind me. We go through a number of different things- fuel pump was working, spark getting to the distributor, timing was good, valves all appeared to be working, but we weren't getting spark to the plugs. Checked the cap, it's new, and that was fine; new rotor button and it looked fine, until he had the bright idea to really check the rotor-and it was too short by almost 3/8" of an inch! I bought it from a local auto parts distributor and never checked it against the original-a mistake I know better not to make. I still don't know why the car ran at all. Now I'm wondering if I cooked the new sports coil I put in at the same time I installed this new button a few weeks ago. What are the chances?
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Caveat Emptor
- Thread starter arbs_53
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Patton
Jedi Warrior
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I was having trouble with the rotors on my Healey. The rotors from two separate British part sources were too short, and I they would burn through after about 100 miles.
What I think is happening is that the suppliers are selling us a one size fits all for Lucas 6 cylinders. My early 6 cyl Healey uses a different dizzy than the later cars, I wonder if your TR250 has a different one that the later TR6's (Triumph ignorance showing)
I started a writeup on my tech and shop pages https://www.austin-healeys.com/techandshop.htm
I finally started ordering Mine from a UK suppler who is having accurate ones made for my distributor. .
Patton
What I think is happening is that the suppliers are selling us a one size fits all for Lucas 6 cylinders. My early 6 cyl Healey uses a different dizzy than the later cars, I wonder if your TR250 has a different one that the later TR6's (Triumph ignorance showing)
I started a writeup on my tech and shop pages https://www.austin-healeys.com/techandshop.htm
I finally started ordering Mine from a UK suppler who is having accurate ones made for my distributor. .
Patton
kindofblue
Jedi Warrior
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Some club members have been having trouble with rotors on the TR6 as well. We thought we had found a Napa unit that was perfect, but it is out of production. Something about using noise suppression cables with the Lucas rotor is trouble.
Dugger
Senior Member
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The rotor button(used)in my '71 TR6 was manufactured in W. Germany(not sure of the manufacturer) and measures 1.067" from center to tip. My spare Moss cap (new) measures 1.025". The (used)rotor cap out of my Spitfire measures 0.965". I am not sure how close the manufacturing tolerances are on these devices, but I do know that if the gap is too wide in the dizzy you could burn out a coil.
Several people I have talked with and myself included have had problems with the replacement rotors from both Moss and TRF. I am not sure what caused the problem, but the insulator would crack after a period of time. My first guess was that the rotor fit was to tight to the dizzy shaft and the combination of vibration and heat expansion was causing the crack. This is the first time I have heard that noise suppression wires could be the culprit, but come to think of it, I was running those when I lost two rotors in one evening.
Can you elborate on these conclusions a little?
Maybe we should run another post.
Several people I have talked with and myself included have had problems with the replacement rotors from both Moss and TRF. I am not sure what caused the problem, but the insulator would crack after a period of time. My first guess was that the rotor fit was to tight to the dizzy shaft and the combination of vibration and heat expansion was causing the crack. This is the first time I have heard that noise suppression wires could be the culprit, but come to think of it, I was running those when I lost two rotors in one evening.
Can you elborate on these conclusions a little?
Maybe we should run another post.
Andy Blackley
Jedi Trainee
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When I first acquired my TR250 in April I replaced the distributor with a rebuilt unit (from Team Triumph). With the new distributor in hand and a new cap and rotor installed, I noticed that when I turned the shaft that I could feel a definite drag at one point in the rotation. The rotor arm was making contact with one of the pick-up points in the cap. I could see that it was hitting only on one end of the rotor arm, which I carefully filed away until it was able to rotate freely. It was easier than grinding the contact in the cap, which could also have been done. I installed the unit and it has run fine ever since.
The cap and rotor were made by the same company and sourced from a local parts store and otherwise appeared to be of higher quality then some of the replacement iginition parts I have received from Moss lately. The point is that it is worthwhile to check the fit of the parts before hand. If it had been a routine ignition job I would have not noticed the binding and the rotor would have eventually broke, probably sooner rather than later. It would have been worse on the old distributor with its wobbly shaft. On the old unit the arm of the rotor was already notably loose.
The cap and rotor were made by the same company and sourced from a local parts store and otherwise appeared to be of higher quality then some of the replacement iginition parts I have received from Moss lately. The point is that it is worthwhile to check the fit of the parts before hand. If it had been a routine ignition job I would have not noticed the binding and the rotor would have eventually broke, probably sooner rather than later. It would have been worse on the old distributor with its wobbly shaft. On the old unit the arm of the rotor was already notably loose.
kindofblue
Jedi Warrior
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[ QUOTE ]
They need to make a clear plastic distributor cap, that would make checking fit and function a lot easier.
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL
TR6 Rotors and wires have been a discussion theme at local meetings. I will check into it more this Sunday when we are having the annual BBQ.
They need to make a clear plastic distributor cap, that would make checking fit and function a lot easier.
[/ QUOTE ]
LOL
TR6 Rotors and wires have been a discussion theme at local meetings. I will check into it more this Sunday when we are having the annual BBQ.
