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Castrol oil again

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tahoe healey

tahoe healey

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As I have now decided in favor of dino oil and I am having trouble finding high mileage 20/50 wt Castrol (green container), has any one found any difference between the regular (white container) and the green? I used the green last oil change and I think it leaked less and looked "cleaner". Unfortunately I have to go with what is available in my rural area. The 10/40 wt is available in green. What to do? What to do? Any feed back?
And then there is a Castrol with some "magnetic stuff" that I am totally unfamiliar with (again in a green container).
 
The high-mileage version has stuff to help swell the old seals to reduce leaks. The regular version either doesn't have as much or has something different.
 
I appreciate that we all have our favorite oils and filters, however, was using 20w50 Castrol Synthetic and found Mobil 1 15w50 to be both faster and easier cold starting (canceled plans to replace my original starter with a gear reduction starter) and long life. Yes, Castrol Synthetic is good but I find Mobil 1 quite good also and much less expensive (last purchase Walmart $22.50 last 5 qt purchase). Last, I am not driving as much or as aggressive as before but still tend toward winding out the engine when shifting (around 5K RPMs) so want a lubricant that will flow and protect but will last around 1 year between changes. Since Mobil 1 does indicate this time interval for their oil, and has all the additives in appropriate quantities (i.e. ZDDP, etc.), I'm happy.

Good luck on your search,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
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tahoe healey said:
As I have now decided in favor of dino oil and I am having trouble finding high mileage 20/50 wt Castrol (green container), has any one found any difference between the regular (white container) and the green? I used the green last oil change and I think it leaked less and looked "cleaner". Unfortunately I have to go with what is available in my rural area. The 10/40 wt is available in green. What to do? What to do? Any feed back?
And then there is a Castrol with some "magnetic stuff" that I am totally unfamiliar with (again in a green container).
Click to expand...

If you're going dino, this is the best if you store your car during winter months and don't want to change out the oil every year if not driven that much. Also, available in synthetic which I use. It is the only oil I'm aware of with specific additives for internal components during storage.

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dro/hr1-conventional-15w-372html/
 
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TH--

You said: "I have now decided in favor of dino oil"

Without intending to open a debate as to the advantages/disadvantages of synthetic versus non-synthetic oil or in any way make you wrong I am curious as to what drives your decision.
 
The high mileage version of Castrol is a combo of syn and dino. As I need to add oil on occasion it is cheaper to carry the Castrol. I change the oil every 3K to 4K miles, mostly to change the filter (KH). I don't need oil that last 10k. Oil is only as clean as the filter in my opinion. Oil builds up acids and debris from combustion which stays until changed it is changed. Syn oil is an great lubricant but do;es it address other issues?
OK, fire away.
 
Wheres the “flogging a dead horse emoji” when you need it .
Deciding on which oil you want to use is like buying underwear .....use what fits ,is comfortable and affordable to YOU !!!!!!
 
Found it , very apt given the nicknames on here :eagerness:
 
Being the scientific, evidence-based type--as opposed to the "I know what I know and that's all that I know" type--I'm always open to changing my views when more data or evidence comes along. I used to be of the "can't get enough ZDDP" mindset, but newer evidence indicates that too much might be not only not helpful, but might actually be destructive. 540Rat's results and methodology are compelling to me, and it appears David Vizard now agrees with him. And, AFAIK, lubrication science seems to continue to move forward, and some companies appear to be changing formulations, so the brand that worked so well 20 years ago may not be the same as what you're pouring in your sump now. At least, if you're rebuilding--or ever plan on rebuilding--an engine you might want to give it some thought.
 
Bob,

I have been reading the 540 RAT you posted and agree that it is both enlightening and comprehensive. I remember reading this report (or an earlier version a while back and although much is presented, it is difficult to distill the key element a Healey owner should focus upon when making an oil decision. Film pressure seems to be a prime factor that would most affect and diminishes operational ware. However, others like Zinc content etc. must have an affect and be considered as well. I must admit I am more confused then ever and my choice of oils and duration between changes is now uncertain but remains unchanged (Mobil 1 15W50) until I can personally simplify my selection criteria for my use and economics.

Thanks for the reference,
Ray(64BJ8P1)
 
I had used Valvoline for about 20 yrs until 1986. I changed the oil in my Ford 302 van and the lifters rattled. I did a next day change to Castrol. Been using Castrol ever since in Domestic cars. I have been using Castrol 20W/50 since 1974 in all my British cars, with never an oil problem, but I changed the oil at 3,000 mile intervals. Upon getting newer vehicles that come with synthetic oil, I changed to Castrol Synthetic for my MINIs (suggested by MINI) and Land Rover. As I race my 03 MINI I use 10W/30 Royal Purple and have had no trouble, so all my vehicles use Royal Purple, except the 1964 Valiant,will use 10W30 regular Castrol and my 57,58 Jag MK1s will use 20W/50 regular Castrol changed every 3,000 miles. Just my decision, but never have had an engine failure in 53 yrs.
es
 
There's two considerations for me: One, for my Healeys, I'll continue to use Valvoline 20W-50 because, well, it's good enough. I will not, however, be dumping any more ZDDP additives in it because I've heard of its potential corrosive effects one too many times. And, two, I still don't know how to treat my new Mustang; I get 'lifetime free oil changes' at the dealer--and that thing takes 10qts!--but they use Motorcraft 5W-20 semi-syn, which doesn't appear to have the film pressure I'd like. If not for the freebie, I might switch to 5W20 Valvoline Modern Engine Oil, because it does have high film numbers. Without the curb pickup I had in San Jose getting rid of 10qts of used oil at a time--ethically--gets to be a challenge.

It's interesting to me, because it appears there's actually an additive that can improve already very good oil (Oil Extreme).
 
I don't feel my asking about the basis for TH's decision leads inevitably to a rehash of ZDDP, etc. His decision can be--and according to post #9 apparently is--based in whole or in part on economics and that is fine with me. I just asked a question.
 
Well, he did say 'fire away.'

Castrol oil, and its level, or lack of, ZDDP has been the subject of more than a few discussions on this forum. IIRC, someone even went to the trouble to contact Castrol about it; and it appears that Castrol has messed both with its ingredients and its packaging (as the blog I referenced might be insinuating). There might be a comparable, or even better, oil that is cheaper than Castrol--who, to some extent, probably rides on its name and legacy--analyzed in the blog. I reconsider my choices of oil, filters and changing schedules frequently as products, any my circumstances, change.

And, our Big Healeys have not been manufactured or sold for over 50 years, so, we are, by definition 'flogging dead horses' whenever we discuss them.
 
Bob--

I sent you a PM.
 
Bob,
You could try Quaker State Ultimate Durability synthetic 0W20 in your Mustang. Rated "Fantastic" by 540ratblog. $20 for 5 quarts at Walmart.com. Or alternate that with your free dealer oil changes.
BTW, I take used motor oil to Advance Auto, etc. for free recycling.
Good luck.
Doug
 
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