• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

Carpet Kit Installation Advice

Share this page

B

BG 62AH

Senior Member
Country flag
Offline
Guys,

I just bought a new carpet kit from Moss. Looks to be of good quality. I was planning on installing it myself, but I am confused on one issue.

There seems to be very few bound edges, so I am not clear on how to install them so the edges don't start fraying. The areas of most concern are in the foot wells, like the seam between the trans tunnel and the floor panel, and the seam between the interior door sill and the floor panel.

I called Moss and asked them, ...they said that this is the way that the original carpets were made.

Do I just glue it down with adhesive? I was planning on using snaps or velcro on the floor panel and trans cover, so that it could easily be removed to access the gearbox.

Should I return it for a different kit?

I would appreciate any feedback from someone that has installed a similiar kit.

Thank you so much!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Re: Carpet Kit Installation Advise

On mine, the tunnel cover is held in place with snaps along the sides. The sill covers are glued down. After those are in place, the flat parts are held in place with snaps. The snaps are specific to carpet and hide within the fibers.
 
Re: Carpet Kit Installation Advise

I used one of the Moss kits in my BJ8 . three summers now and no fraying . What I found was Moss are the only kit that provides the gearbox dipstick access flap . none of the others did . I used the snaps on the tunnel and glued pretty much everything else . There has been no fraying as I believe its cut using a heat sealing method which seals the cut edges .
 
Re: Carpet Kit Installation Advise

Hi BG, I'm just finishing up installing my carpet and uphostry kit from Moss. I'm pretty satisfied with it. The edges don't unravel as they appeared sealed as mentioned earlier. I believe the bound edges are the back edge of the rear most part of the tunnel. The one with the emergency brake handle and covers the driveshaft. Also rear edge of the front floor pieced which fit right in front of the seats. When I first looked at the kit, the pieces didn't make sense to me. But after laying things around and guessing alot I found the pictoral legend in the box. That helped but still took some determination to see where each piece went. Also note that there is some insulating material included and it is only for the pieces in the toe boxes. Use a super contact glue designed for automotive uphostry and headliners. I believe mine was a Permatex product. If used according to the directions, on first contact it is stuck, no moving or sliding it around, it is stuck and it stays there. After you glue the insulating material into the toe box locations, you will glue the carpet pieces there on top of that. Working around the pedals is a REAL bear. Take your time and don't use too many four letter words. Also I glued only in areas that I felt would hold what I wanted in place. The piece that fits to the right of your gas pedal wraps around the front surface of the trans tunnel. You can cut to suit and it will not unravel. I trimmed mine alittle because I did not want that particular piece to be proud on top the fibre glass trans tunnel for ease of removal and replacement of the tunnel. The piece of trans tunnel carpet with the access flap will cover that edge anyway. With your kit you should have gotten snaps and such. There should be male snaps on your fibre glass trans tunnel. I kept my original male snap ends that were on my tunnel because they were installed with small machine screws and nuts with lock washers. The ones that come with the kit are installed using a sheet metal screw thread. I figured a few removals down the road and they would pull out. But I removed mine and cleaned then and shined them up to make sure they would snap well. One other thing, the carpet that fits under the seats. I have read that the original pieces were cut to allow the seat adjuster rails to fit to the floor. And there was oak strips under the rails. My original carpets were so bad that I threw them out along time ago and I didn't remember that they were cut. So I mindlessly plopped my seats down on top of the carpet, with the oak strips. Now this can very well present a problem. The studs may be too short.
But when I rebuilt my seat frames I installed longer studs and I had just enough threads to make it work. I do believe once everything is tightened down and some miles on you seat butt, that the carpet will be sufficiantly crushed that it won't even be noticable that it is there. Dave.
 
Thank you!! These really help, although I expect that I WILL be using some four letter words. I really appreciate the help.
 
The original carpets were not bound except for the transmission cover tunnel around the handbrake and at the front. The originals did not have a flap for the dipstick but this is a good idea. Do not glue anything to the floor as at some point the inside of your car will get very wet and you'll want to remove the carpets and underlay. The carpets are cut around the seat runners and should also be removable.
 
Back
Top