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Carbon fouled spark plug

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welll....dissimilar metals......steel plugs, cast iron heads.....or, cast iron heads and stell manifold bolts.....
I never use the copper stuff, primarily because I have two or three big bottles of the silver stuff.
 
Randall. Many thanks. Our local auto shops don't carry the Permatex copper, but they can probably order some for me. I'll switch.
 
And, oh yes... What is the advantage of copper based as opposed to the calcium oxide, aluminum, graphite, silica-based?
 
LexTR3 said:
And, oh yes... What is the advantage of copper based as opposed to the calcium oxide, aluminum, graphite, silica-based?
Click to expand...
All I know is that the copper works better for me. I've not tried every other type, but I have tried several of them; the copper is a winner hands-down.

Exhaust systems are where I find it really amazing. Even those pesky headpipe-to-manifold nuts now come off easily every time.

For example, I tried some of the (cheaper) silver stuff on the brand new wire wheels I bought for LE1473L. About a year later, on the way to VTR 2005, I had to stop to buy tires. The threads on one knockoff were seized so tightly that we wound up beating on it in shifts! (Just about wore out the brass hammer, too.)
 
Randall. If it works for you... I believe it is the way to go. Copper it is.

Now you mention something that I haven't thought about: using antiseize on the threads of the knockoffs. I have kept them appropriately greased (not gobs of grease), but I never thought of antiseize. Is this something you recommend?

(In my case, I take the wheels off about once or twice a month because I am cleaning, rust treating, and painting the chassis. So the chance of seizing is diminished for now.)
 
LexTR3 said:
Is this something you recommend?
Click to expand...
More along the lines of something I am trying. The book says "PBC grease", which I understand is basically the same thing as "Copa-slip", a UK brand name for copper-based anti-seize (near as I can tell).

I drive my Triumphs rather hard (the Stag with wire wheels won first in class at the VTR 2005 autocross) and sometimes in adverse conditions (hit so much water on the way there that it literally broke the driver's side wiper arm). Ordinary grease just doesn't seem to hold up under those conditions.
 
In 1977-78 I had an MGB with wire wheels. It needed a new tire, but the wheel was frozen to rhe splines. I took the car to the local sports car mechanic so he could remove the wheel.

After removing the wheel, he told me to use silver anti-seize on the splines. That way, if some came out of the hub, it wouldn't be so visible against the silver wire wheel.

I still have the can (with the brush in the lid) I bought back then, although it's getting a little low. The MG is long gone, but I have used silver anti-seize on The Blue TR3 anf the TR3 racecar wire wheels ever since. Once I panicked that I was running out and bought a one-pound can.

I never had another problem with stuck wire wheels.
 
Just a final follow-up on my carbon fouled # 1 spark plug.

Starting the the simplest solutions first, I checked the distributor, removed lead wire #1 and reconnected it.

That seems to have been the problem.

I took the car out for a road test this afternoon -- first opportunity after some heavy rains -- and it ran great. Much better performance than before. Much more pickup and much smoother. I had not realized that it didn't have sufficient power.

I will remove the spark plug later and check for carbon fouling, but I suspect it will be gone.
 
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