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Carb Rebuild
- Thread starter Anthony_S
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poolboy
Yoda
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See what Joe Curto recommends. He'll fix you up.
https://www.joecurto.com/
https://www.joecurto.com/
I had bad luck with rubber o-rings -- ethanol was expanding the rubber and causing leaks. Went to SU made cork seals and everything is tip top. Stick with SU branded parts.
Also, a well known "rebuilder" rebuilt my carbs but the front carb was rich no matter how much I leaned out the adjustment. I took the carbs apart probably 5 times, until I figured out the jet tube on the front carb was a different length (about 1/16 shorter) than the tube in the rear carb thus causing a perpetually rich condition. Make sure the parts are homogenous between carbs.
Also, a well known "rebuilder" rebuilt my carbs but the front carb was rich no matter how much I leaned out the adjustment. I took the carbs apart probably 5 times, until I figured out the jet tube on the front carb was a different length (about 1/16 shorter) than the tube in the rear carb thus causing a perpetually rich condition. Make sure the parts are homogenous between carbs.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Mkutz said:
What kind of "rubber"? I don't believe you can even buy a real rubber O-ring, and some synthetics are much more tolerant of both ethanol and gasoline than others. EPDM, for example, is very common in plumbing applications, but not compatible with gasoline.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/EPDM_rubber
PKPoole
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Anthony,
I use the Moss master rebuild kits. They come with the cork jet seals and I think they work a lot better than the rubber ones. Just remember to soak them in oil overnight before installing them. This keeps the jets free to move when the chock is applied. Good luck. PKPoole
_______________________________
'58 MGA
'62 TR3A
'60 TR3A (restoration in progress)
I use the Moss master rebuild kits. They come with the cork jet seals and I think they work a lot better than the rubber ones. Just remember to soak them in oil overnight before installing them. This keeps the jets free to move when the chock is applied. Good luck. PKPoole
_______________________________
'58 MGA
'62 TR3A
'60 TR3A (restoration in progress)
M
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I just rebuilt two sets of SU carbs using Moss rebuild kits (note: they have a separate kit for the jet rebuild) and had very good results. I, too, used the cork jet seals, although they are a little thicker than original ones, and so far have had no trouble. Moss says that the new "rubber" ones are better -- surely they must be ethanol/alcohol resistant -- but I haven't tried them. And, yes, be sure to soak the cork seals in 3-in-one oil overnight before installing them. This keeps the jets free to move, but even more important: this makes certain that the dry cork seals don't break when you are putting them on the jets.
M
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The Jet Bearing Kits that I purchased (#89 in the catalog, Moss 370-395) had cork seals. If you are just seeking to replace the seals, springs, washers, and jets, you won't need a master rebuild kit, in my opinion, because it includes throttle shafts and throttle disks, etc. If you are completely rebuilding the carbs, then you'll need the master rebuild kit or rebuild kit.
There are important items in the Jet Bearing Kit that are not included in the Carb Rebuild Kits. You need to check this out.
You might telephone Moss and tell them what you plan to do and they can tell you what you will need.
There are important items in the Jet Bearing Kit that are not included in the Carb Rebuild Kits. You need to check this out.
You might telephone Moss and tell them what you plan to do and they can tell you what you will need.
JFeher
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M
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Burrell22:
Good and wise advice: (1) do one carb at a time, and (b) do one carb all at once.
I would add:
(1) Photograph each carb from all angles before you start, and photograph each stage of the disassembly and reassembly. It's amazing how quickly one forgets exactly how some part fits or should look on the finished carb.
(2) Except for the worn out cork seals, keep all the old parts that are removed for a reasonable length of time, at least until you are sure that everythng is working right. This goes for almost any component you replace. You just never know....
Good and wise advice: (1) do one carb at a time, and (b) do one carb all at once.
I would add:
(1) Photograph each carb from all angles before you start, and photograph each stage of the disassembly and reassembly. It's amazing how quickly one forgets exactly how some part fits or should look on the finished carb.
(2) Except for the worn out cork seals, keep all the old parts that are removed for a reasonable length of time, at least until you are sure that everythng is working right. This goes for almost any component you replace. You just never know....