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Carb Problem - Something's sticking

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Keoke - What do you mean by pulling it back into the top unit? I tried pushing the damper through the rubber top and it really won't budge any more.

Dave - Thanks for all of the ideas. One question, how do you remove the air cleaners?

Anthony - Great link, thanks!

Zblue - Yes, this is what started everything. I was twiddling with the choke because it wasn't working. How can I see if this is causing my problem?

Thanks!
-Brandon
 
Hi Piman,Dashpot refers to any type piston that moves in a cylinder containing oil. The damper assembly.-Fwiw-Keoke
 
Brandon,
Removing the air filters is a pretty easy task (the only hard part is finding a place to put the other end of the wrench). There should be two studs extending out from each air filter, which go through holes bored in the carburetor body. You can see the studs as #91 in the following link. The bolt you want to unscrew is #94, which holds the air filter on by attaching to the stud as it goes through the hole near the inlet to the carburetor.

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=28867
 
Thanks for the help 100DashSix.

Here's the update. I removed the aircleaners and tried to move the pistons up and down per Keoke's direction. Both pistons took quite a bit of pressure with the damper in to move up(one finger though), however, the piston with the broken damper took slightly more force. Without the damper, both pistons moved up and down very easily and clanked with they came down. With the damper in, the piston with the broken damper came down fine and made a clank. However, the other piston (normal damper) did not clank(like Keoke said it should) when it came down. Does this mean anything? Should I try anything else?

Thanks!
-Brandon
 
As Dave said earlier today, the dampers must be very straight, otherwise they could retard the motion of the pistons. Since the piston will rise and fall freely without the dampers in, I'm guessing it's not an off-center jet causing the trouble, but is instead the non-broken damper being bent. What's odd is the broken damper is mechanically sound, but the non-broken one isn't.

I think it indicates that you're not getting the best performance, but I don't think it's a show stopper. As long as the piston is able to come down, the engine should run and the mixture should be more or less correct, I think. Could be wrong as to its severity, and I'm not at home with my Healey, so I can't experiment with any of this.

If you remove the rear damper (the non-broken one, the probably bent one), does the engine start up easier?
 
That's what I thought, but the Moss catalog never mentions a dashpot. That's what had me confused.
 
[ QUOTE ]
That's what I thought, but the Moss catalog never mentions a dashpot. That's what had me confused.

[/ QUOTE ]

WOT! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif Brandon You just need to check out Moss's-------"Dashpot Oil"----Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Yep, they have dashpot oil...but for what??? There's no dashpot listed anywhere in the catalog or Healey manual that I have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Try the smokers catalog /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Yep, they have dashpot oil...but for what??? There's no dashpot listed anywhere in the catalog or Healey manual that I have. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

For the Dashpots of course!. See definition provided to Piman---Keoke /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
Whatever! All I know is that my new dampers were just shipped and should be here in a few days! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
Dashpot oil goes in the damper shaft. The whole top of the carb (damper assembly) is the dashpot.

Isn't there also a dashpot in electronics? Just curious.

Glad you got the new one's coming. They'll help!
 
[ QUOTE ]
Dashpot oil goes in the damper shaft. The whole top of the carb (damper assembly) is the dashpot.

Isn't there also a dashpot in electronics? Just curious

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes the term Dashpot was adopted from mechanical engineering and used to identify variable precision resistors in electronics that were contained in a can,Potted,and used exclusively for sensitive laboratory measurements.--Keoke
 
Okay everyone, here's the update.

The dampers came in yesterday. I used some carb cleaner and cleaned the pistons and chamber really well. I made sure the dampers had enough oil and then put it all back together. I just tried starting the car, and after quite a few attempts, it started. It idled at 10k rpms for about 30 seconds. Then the revs started climbing up again like they did before all of this. They got to 15k and I stopped the car. I started the car again and it started at 10k rpms and started going up. Anyone have an idea of what's causing this?

UPDATE:
Here's what it's doing now. I start it and it starts at 10k and increased to 15k. Then it dropped down to 13k and hovered there. I pressed on the throttle and it increased to about 20k, then slowly dropped to 17k and stayed there. I'm guessing it has to do with the throttle linkage or something around there. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
-Brandon
 
HI Brandon, Disconnect the chokes at the carburetor and see what happens after you start the car.---Keoke
 
HI If you follow the choke wires over to the carb you will see that they become captured in a small clamp like fitting. Do not pull the cable out just loosen the nut enough to free the cable and then pushdown on the arm the fitting pivots in.Do this to both carbs and then restart the engine do not touch the choke.---Keoke
 
Keoke...you're a genius! That was it! It was actually on the carb that had the non-broken damper. The choke arm was stuck. Once I removed the cables, I was able to get it down. My car is now idling nicely at 800rpms! Time to go tighten everything and take it for a test drive! (I haven't even got to try out the brakes since I bypassed the boster.)

Thanks to all for the help!
-Brandon
 
Oh MY gosh /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif, But be sure and tell them SHG/7777 fellahs bout me too.---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
OH by the way if you really want to check the car out take a run up "Yarnell Hill"---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif After the ride put a spot of oil on everthing that moves on the carbs.--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------One more point.Do you have choke return springs on those carbs. These springs are identical to the throttle return springs you see attached to the intake manifold mounted brackets and end at the carb throttle arms.However, the choke return springs connect to the same pivot point that the choke cables clamp to and then are hooked to holes in the inner fender arch for the front carb and the pedal box support brace for the rear one.For some reason not all cars had these holes installed.?

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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