Carb Isue

[MY66AH]

I just worked on the carbs on my 66 AH Sprite, su136, set the floats, new needle/seat and had to put in a new rear jet in. I accently bent the meetering rod, bent it back. Everything seemed to be moving freeley. Started it up and after a fewe minutes I was dumping raw fuel out the over flow. Do i need to replace the meetering rod? Thanks for the help everyone. -Chris

 

[Billm]

That is not controlled by the metering rod- it is controlled by the float jet in the float bowl
Clean that and try it again
BillM

 

[Boink]

Not sure I'd bend any needle. :rolleye: But as Bill states, the bowl is controlled by the Grose-jet or Viton-tipped valve attached to the floats. There is an optimal position that leaves just the right amount of fuel for the jet.

 

[MY66AH]

Thanks guys, but i cleaned out the bowl, jet and needle and seat and still get the same over flowing action. I did notice when I set the float it was really sloppy on the piviot pin, that might cause my issue?

 

[JPSmit]

there is sloppy and there is sloppy - it should be loose so it can pivot freely.

the jet is very easy to check, (I can't remember the exact angles - not quite awake), but, with the float "up" (away from the jet) you should be able to blow air through it - with the float down (on top of the jet) you shouldn't. If you can when it is down, replace the jet. Another possibility (though I think it should cause fuel starvation) is that the float has begun to leak.

 

[SD Bugeye]

Check the float level again also if you used any sealant Teflon tape or disturbed a line later had some debris in it it may now be at your seat

 

[dklawson]

As above, check the float valve again.

IF you used Grose Jets, either remove them and clean them thoroughly with carb cleaner or remove them and throw them away. Grose Jets have always caused me problems and I have replaced them on my British cars with Viton tipped needles. Once the valve itself has been addressed, focus on the float valve height setting. As mentioned above, the exact value will be in your manual but as an approximate rule of thumb, the floats with the metal arm are set for about a 1/8" to 5/32" gap between the arm and the lid when the lid is inverted. Use a drill bit as a gauge pin to set the level. If you have the later all plastic float used as a service part there is nothing to bend. Your only hope there is to use fiber washers as necessary to space the float valve body down from the lid to get the correct float level.

If you do not have a filter between the pump and carbs you would be well served by doing so. Use a translucent, disposable filter right before the carbs to catch any debris that passes through the pump. Also replace any old rubber fuel line between the filter and the carbs as old ones can shed rubber crumbs that get caught in the float valve.

If you bent the mixture needle, remove it from the vacuum piston and chuck it in a drill press. Run the drill press at medium speed and use a wooden block to push the needle "back on center". You will never get all the bend out but you want to make sure it is not bent enough to touch the inside of the jet near the top shoulder. If re-centering the jet does not correct any sticking or rubbing problems, replace the needle.

 

[MY66AH]

Thanks everyone. I found the problem. The float arm just had to be straightened out and reset. No leaks and have plans for a nice relaxing cruise for this weekend. Again thank you!

 

[JPSmit]

Thanks everyone. I found the problem. The float arm just had to be straightened out and reset. No leaks and have plans for a nice relaxing cruise for this weekend. Again thank you!

always nice when it is a simple fix! have fun

 

[LarryK]

Now put the hair you pulled out back in and have a nice July 4th weekend!