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Car Color

BionicHealey

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Since there is no paint code on a MkIII how does everyone feel about painting one a proper Healey color even though it isn't the original color of the car?

Was also thinking of base coat/clear coat, ant suggestions there.

The last time I painted cars (long ago) it was with acrylic lacquer and enamel

Mark
 
Even though there is no "color code", the Heritage certificate will list he original color. You could also find it in hidden parts of the car, like under the gearbox mounts, inside the door skins, etc.

If I were you, I'd paint it, in the following order of preference:

1) The original color.
2) A non-original color, but appropriate for the year.
3) heck, it's your car - paint it any color you want.

Original Healeys were painted with nitrocellulose lacquer or alkyd enamel (100's) or acrylic lacquer or acrylic enamel (later cars), depending on the color A base coat/clear coat would not look authentic but, heck,, it's your car.

A good simulation of the old enamels would be a straight, modern catalyzed enamel. Color sand and polish it and it would look like an acrylic lacquer. There's no way to duplicate a nitro lacquer in my opinion and experience.
 
Hello Mark :savewave:,
why you changed your username ... :wink:
I totally agree with Bill.
Shortly I have to take the desicion which colour I will paint my car.
The reason was,my car is originally pacific green (like mint,not the popular colour for sale of the car in europe)
In the past in my head it was deeply burned, that all british cars has to be dark brg coloured...You know,the fine british style...
The english also build sports/race cars with funny colours.
But I define it should be the original colour. You can believe me, I like now this colour very much because it is the healey colour with the real original history.

Bye michel- who think a real good restoration is a growing process (mostly a long process..)
 
BionicHealey said:
Since there is no paint code on a MkIII ..

Was also thinking of base coat/clear coat, ant suggestions there.

The last time I painted cars (long ago) it was with acrylic lacquer and enamel

Mark
From the "Austin Healey guide to Historic Colors", by Donald Pikovnik the colors shown for a BJ8 (MKIII) are; Black, BRG (GN 25, lighter), and BRG (GN 29,the dark one), Colorado Red, Florida Green, Golden Beige Metallic, Ice Blue Metallic, and Old English White. Surely you can find one of these you like????
Actually I kind of like Red. Or the light Green over OEW.
 

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The car was originally red, but my son (with the red Trans Am and former red RX7) says please "no more red"

Since I bought the car I've favored the Ice Blue over OEW.
So I guess you're right Johnny, there is a color I like.

Thanks for the paint info Bill, if I stay away from Base coat/clear coat it will be easier to paint the "inside stuff" first and the body panels later.

You also have a decision to make michel, but like it was said, "heck,it's your car"
 
I will weigh in, I agree that it is easier to stay away from base coat, clear coat, they make some nice urethane enamels in single stage (shiny with no clear coat) that have very good adhesion, durability and shine.

If you want the super shiny show car look go for base/clear, I think a single stage looks more original.

Ice Blue is usually a metallic, although a non metallic version was listed for the early 100s. If you are painting it yourself and have not painted with a metallic before please be aware it is much harder than painting a solid color, metallics are very sensitive to spray patterns and even conditions paint was applied, easy to get tiger stripes and other problems and harder to fix.

I though painting your own car was not that hard until I tried a metallic, much harder.
 
Hey Bionic Healey,
I had a Healey Blue over OEW coves and still have seller's remorse for
selling it last year. That makes a beautiful color combo along with
a blue interior and blue top. One word of caution when shooting a
metallic like Healey Blue - mine had a great high quality paint job
done by the previous owner when it was restored but believe the fenders
were painted off of the car and as a result you could tell a difference
in the way the paint looked on the vertical and horizontal surfaces if
you looked hard and trust me, I always noticed it. Maybe that was just mine, but understand it is best to paint a metallic with fenders on so you avoid some of the above. Someone with more experience in painting cars may not agree
with me but talk to your painter about it.
Good luck,
Mike
 
Per the above: "Ice Blue is usually a metallic..... If you are painting it yourself and have not painted with a metallic before please be aware it is much harder than painting a solid color, metallics are very sensitive to spray patterns"


Very true, so two options, paint all together or on a jig holding all parts in the proper orientation, which is the best of both worlds, 100% coverage and nice finish.


https://www.flickr.com/photos/seanachie/sets/72157603749518637/


Michael.
 
Thanks for all the great pointers.

I will probably paint all the innards myself, but my neighbor who is much more experienced will more than likely do the outside.

I know what you men about different schools of thought on the "proper" procedure.
Whether to paint the panels separate or not. I've seen it done both ways.

Makes sense to me to do them on the car, my only concern will be installing the beads on a finished paint job. I imagine with care and some help, it can be done safely.

This is probably the way I'll go, especially using metallic AND the two-tone.

byw Michael, if that's your 100 it's Beautiful!!!
 
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