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Can't remove rear flexible brake hose

Rakos

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Hi; at fitting attaching it to solid hose coming from engine (front end of hose): it goes through an L shaped holder welded to body. Nut is jammed on so tight that when I try to force it the L holder bends. Afraid to break it off. Seems like it has another fitting that slides onto it? So rusty can't see. Anyone have success removing the flex hose? Thanks, John.
 
The front brake flex hose attaches to the steel hydraulic line at that little L holder. The hose fitting has an integrated nut on the backside, and a male threaded coupling that extends through the L-bracket. Then another nut with lock washer goes on and holds the end of the brake hose solid to the L-bracket. The steel hydraulic line has a female cap fitting that then attaches to the male threaded portion of the brake hose.

To remove you will have to first release the steel line. Use a flare nut wrench on the line fitting, not a regular wrench or you will strip the nut. Like these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-pc-sae-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-61358.html
Hold the integrated nut on the brake hose from the other side of the L-bracket while you do this. A second flare nut wrench would be ideal.

After the steel line is released, you will need to release the nut from the same male threaded portion of the flexible hose (on the same side of the L-bracket). Once this nut is released the flexible hose can be withdrawn from the bracket.
 
I had a similar problem on rear of Land Rover. Realized since I was replacing rubber hose that I could simply cut it off. This allowed me to use a socket on that nut giving me a better purchase. Of course same thing works if your're replacing front metal pipe too. Wrench on both nuts balance torque forces to help prevent bending. Belatedly hope this helps someone .
 
Some PB Blaster in advance as well helps. Let it soak.
 
Normal for older cars and trucks. Lots of penetrating oil and time. If like the older Jags, Witworth wrenches needed to prevent rounding nuts.
 
I've removed loads of these and the first thing I do is cut the hose close to the "L" bracket as I can, tin snips work fine. I use a deep well socket 9/16" if the hose is original replacement, a metric size if it's a cheep after market hose. The deep well socket can be used to prevent the "L" bracket from twisting while you undo the nut on the metal brake line side.

Johnb:eagerness:
 
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