TR2/3/3A Cant get my Tr3 engine to start. any advice?

[TR3driver]

Since I am posting, I have another question. When I turn the ignition key off, the engine stops but then it continues to sputter. It will continue to do this unless I block the carburetor intakes to kill the engine.

Generally, it's best to start a new thread with a new question. There may be folks that are interested or have something to contribute; but didn't read this far because they looked at the start and decided they weren't interested.

In addition to the possible causes Frank mentioned, just having the throttles open too far can aggravate the problem. My TR3A didn't like to idle below about 1200 rpm and would frequently run on if conditions were right (hot weather, high underhood temps, etc). The fuel we had in CA back then seemed to also aggravate the problem.

So, I learned to leave it in gear, with my foot firmly on the brake, and let the clutch out just after turning off the key. Takes a bit of practice to get the timing just right, but it will stop the engine from running on without hurting anything else. And if you time it just right, it's so smooth that no one (including you) will know if the engine would have run-on or not

 

[TR3driver]

Do you still drive the car much?

I can vouch for that. Don lives in Montreal, but I have bumped into him at TR events on both coasts of the US. And his car looks (and runs) great!

First time I saw Don in the flesh so to speak, he was cradling a dead generator like it was a baby. Of course the fact he was nearly 3000 miles from home with a dead generator probably had something to do with the concern in his face :laugh:

 

[TR3driver]

I was using a modern coil that came with a MSD ignition kit, I would have never though there was any difference.

The MSD requires a 1.5 ohm coil, used without a resistor.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] So, I need a correct TR3 coil.[/QUOTE]
If you are in a hurry, another alternative is to pick up a ballast resistor at your FLAPS. Discrete resistors were common on cars in the 70s, and they are pretty much all interchangeable for cars with points. Even some Triumphs (like my Stags) used discrete resistors. Just wire it in series with the coil, doesn't really matter which side. Mine is secured with a long screw through where the heater hose would go through the firewall (if I had a heater).
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]
I measured the pedestals does this measurement seem right?

[/QUOTE]
Seems right to me. I measured three pedestals in the parts bin, and they were all between 2.050 and 2.070.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Also measure the push rods, any thoughts

[/QUOTE]
Again, that seems to match the ones in the bin.

 

[Member 10617]

hermanmaire,

As for your engine running on (dieseling), Randall and others have given you a lot of good information on what causes it and how to deal with it.

I'll add my 2-cents worth. A mechanic once told me that having the idle too high can be one of the causes of dieseling. With my car, I have found this to be the main cause of occasional dieseling. If I have the idle too high, it diesels; and when I reduce the idle a bit, the dieseling goes away. -- Just another thought...

 

[Geo Hahn]

...Heres a picture of the adjustment screws, you can see that they are all pretty much backed out as far as they will go!!

...

If it was just the exhaust valves I would be thinking 'recession' (not the one President Obama's dealing with, but the sort that soft heads can suffer with no-lead gas).

Since it sounds like all valves are involved I wonder what would cause that. Possibly the head thickness has been reduced (but it would have had to have been reduced a lot which would raise compression and possibly contribute to run-on... hmmm).

 

[bgbassplyr]

Leave car in gear, clutch pedal pushed in, turn the key off and, as the engine dies and just before it stops, let the clutch out. This will stop the engine rotation and the ensuing running on.

 

[CJD]

It sounds like a PO shaved a lot off the heads to raise the compression. It's a standard hot-rodding trick...and unfortunately there is no cure once it's done. To lose that much off the head deck, it is not just a few thousandths every now in then, but an intentional shave.

At least that's what I'm thinking...

John

 

[martx-5]

... To lose that much off the head deck, it is not just a few thousandths every now in then, but an intentional shave...

Easy enough to check, the original head thickness is 3.330".

 

[Member 10617]

Hermanmaire,

I mentioned earlier what a mechanic once told me about engine run-on, dieseliing. I failed to quote him entirely. What he said was that "the main cause of dieseling is too high idle and too lean mixture." For what it's worth....

There is a great article on engine run-on, dieseling at "The MGA with an attitude" at https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/ro101.htm

You might want to take a look at it along with all the good advice and information you've gotten from members of the BCf.

 

[sp53]

Yes the over running or dieseling is more than likely carbon buildup that is glowing and igniting the fuel. My experience has been the problem is in the ignition rather than the carburation. Any number of variables can cause a weak spark and leave carbon deposits. I would over haul the ignition system with a totally new stock set up: distributor, coil, condenser, wires, points, the whole 9 yards. I saw a case once where the rings did not seat on a new engine that coupled with some oil coming up from the oil rings actually caused the engine to diesel with this black carbon oily mix. Furthermore, the first principle of the problem with this new engine disappointed was a poor ignition, creating a weak spark and not burning the fuel and washing out the rings; the knee bone is connected to the angle bone.