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TR4/4A Can you proof read this please | TR2-4a Cylinder head stud length chart

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tdskip

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When researching this I did not find a guide that lists what length cylinder head studs go where. Yes, I know this would not be an issue of you wrote it down when you took the old head off, but seems useful to have on the site here.

 
Easy enough to figure out on the spot; just set the head into place and drop studs into different holes until you get the same protrusion across the board.

Unfortunately, I don't believe your diagram is correct. The slightly longer studs go on the RH side (with the high port head), because the head is taller around the high ports. (With the early low-port heads, studs were the same length on both sides.)

Also, if you have the original studs for a later engine, there is a slightly longer stud that goes in the RH rearmost position, to accommodate the lifting eye.
 
Hi Randall - so the 9 and 9 1/2 sides are swapped?

EDIT - oh geez, didn't think to look at the head and notice that the port side is higher than the spark plug side. Oops.
 
The 5 and 5-3/8 are swapped as well.

You convinced me that I should finish adding stud lengths to my PDF of the SPC; but my really old graphics editor doesn't work on my not-quite-so-old Windoze. Guess I'm gonna have to learn a new trick.
 
Thanks Randall - so basically longer bolts on port (higher) side.

I am having an issue where one of the 5 3/8 doesn't want to fully seat without some torque where the other all cooperated with hand tightening.
 
The threads for the short studs are at the top of the block, so you should be able to run a thread chaser in there. Obviously you need to clear any FOD from the hole as well.

Do the ARP studs have the slots to let any liquid out of the blind holes?
 
Any issues, or is it normal, for there to be slight variations in how far out of the cylinder hear the studs stick? On the port side I have one about 1 inch protrusion and the others at 3/4.
 
tdskip said:
Any issues, or is it normal, for there to be slight variations in how far out of the cylinder hear the studs stick? On the port side I have one about 1 inch protrusion and the others at 3/4.
Click to expand...

Could that be for attaching an engine lifting eye ?
 
I believe the lifting eye was accommodated by changing the RR stud from 5-5/8 to 5-9/16. (PN 113570 to 121734)

Some small variation is normal, but not 1/4".
 
Here are where all except two are at;



Picture of the passenger side rear corner bolt - this one is tight in the block and won't do down any further;



I am beginning to think I have an issue with the block since the studs are high quality (ARP) and with your help in the right spot.
 
Did you try cleaning and chasing the hole?
 
Good morning - I did and it threaded in more easily but no difference in depth/height.

Thank you for all of the assistance.
 
So, is the hole shallower or the stud longer than the others?

I would probably just put it together and try it anyway; but being the curious sort (as in dead cat), I'd want to know what the difference was.
 
Hi - hole must be shallower. Studs were all matched.

Looks like I have two like that on the port side actually with everything snugged up. Odd.

EDIT - I found a picture of the head before it was removed and it appears that the two studs that are taller than the others with the ARP studs are in the same location as the ones that were taller studs prior than removed.
 

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From the picture it looks like the difference is how deep the nuts are able to go. Are the tops of the studs level with each other ?
 
Hi Ken. I have two studs that are above the others. Difference is height of studs once threaded all the way down, nuts will all thread on OK. The two in question are both 5 3/8 and were equally taller prior to being removed.
 
I have ARP studs, and the short studs on the intake/exhaust side do stick up farther, but only about 1/16" more then the other studs. I have the lifting eye on the rear stud, so hard to tell what's up with that as it's thicker then the ARP washers.
 
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