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TR2/3/3A Can radiator be fixed without removing it?
- Thread starter Momikey
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I suspect not.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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I had the same problem once. The guy at the radiator shop told me to pull it out and bring it back for him to repair it.
Removal is to remove the front bumper, bolts above the radiator across the top and down both sides from the underside of each fender. Time consuming depending on how hard it is to remove the bolts from under the fenders. They have a tendency to be rusted and stubborn. When you put them back on use never seize on them.
Charley
Removal is to remove the front bumper, bolts above the radiator across the top and down both sides from the underside of each fender. Time consuming depending on how hard it is to remove the bolts from under the fenders. They have a tendency to be rusted and stubborn. When you put them back on use never seize on them.
Charley
Geo Hahn
Yoda
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The leak at the seam for the neck is a common one (people push down on the cap as the open or close it w/o supporting the neck). Definitely fixable but you will want the radiator checked out while it is at the shop. Some have also added some reinforcement to that neck (Randall, I think did this).
But remember that after all the evils escaped from the box there was still one thing left at the bottom.
But remember that after all the evils escaped from the box there was still one thing left at the bottom.
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Hopefully a good, old-time radiator shop could fix. From what I've heard, the new "repro" radiators are, uh, not of the highest quality. OTOH, some of the replacement aluminum radiators are quite good!
Hey Bill does the Hurricane fan work really good. Do you think I should put one of those on my TR3A instead of the push fan on the outside of the radiator? (110 degrees today in Cali) Also did you have to buy the mounting kit on the macy's site has well to go with the fan?
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
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The one I had repaired at the neck like yours is still on the road 9 years after the repair. That car is now in Washington state with my son. I will add that on my 2 TR4's that I have built I have converted to the aluminum radiator. We get the very hot temperatures as well.
Charley
GTP1960
Jedi Knight
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Is it overheating?
if so an aluminum rad. W/ out the crank port is a good option.
i went with a puller, but their are as many reasons to pick a different fan as there are members of BCF.
and they all work.
also consider replacing water pump while your there.
(steering & front suspension will be calling your name too, awa: timing chain & front seal.)
TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
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Be careful, here's what I found after removing a few things that needed attention. It needed attention too, but I still had hope. -And that's not to say all the evil has come out...
Attachments
Oh No. My engine only has 6000 miles on it so I hope I don't strip it down that much. LOL.
CJD
Yoda
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I had just such a leak in a radiator rebuilt from a local shop. You can read the thread, but basically, when faced with several hours R&Ring the rad, I chose to solder the leak in place, even though the radiator had a warranty on their work. Took 20 minutes and lasted since then. I doubt a radiator shop would fix it in place, as it opens them up to a lot of liability if they screw up with the torch in tight quarters. Plus a shop could care less about the work YOU have to put in.
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?79899-It-s-Alive!-TR3-Generator-amp-Rad-Questions
https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcf/showthread.php?79899-It-s-Alive!-TR3-Generator-amp-Rad-Questions
John beat me to it, but I think you could fix that one in place. When I was twenty, we put on metal gutters that were soldered in place on 2 and 3 story + house with large irons and salomoniac to keep the irons clean. John’s posts are very detailed so you will get the scoop there. I would just say that I would use 50/50 solder (and around here that solder has to be purchased in the electrical department) plus get everything squeakie clean, dry and not too hot.
CJD
Yoda
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Like Steve said...cleaning is the key. I just used regular modern solder/flux from Lowes and a torch, but an iron might be easier to control to prevent any colateral damage. The good thing is that if it doesn't work, you can still remove it to go to the shop and it'll cost the same.