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TR2/3/3A Camber on TR3A

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HJR

HJR

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I have the Tri-Anguliner Tool for checking camber on the front wheels of the 1959 TR3A. The tool is about 50 years old but still has plenty of liquid in the vial. Is there an updated tool like the Tri-Anguliner available anywhere? Is the only way to adjust camber replacement of parts? I do see that camber is specified as a +2 degrees but no tolerance is specified. Does anyone know what an acceptable tolerance is? Thanks.
 
+/- 1/2 degree shouldn't hurt anything, as long as they match within reason.

Some people have reported that you can get a small adjustment by flipping the upper fulcrum pin end to end, but I've not tried it myself. The factory made no other provision for adjusting camber.

I have seen aftermarket A-arms that allow adjustment, or some people install the later TR4 setup so they can slot the holes in the upper arms and get some adjustment. (The later TR4 setup also provides 3 degrees of castor.)
 
Thanks Randall,
I will try to check castor(caster?) with the Tri-Anguliner also but I need some kind of twist bearing to put the front wheels on first. I guess a +/- 1/2 degree tolerance will be ok there too.

Hans
 
The only way I know is to bend the vertical link to bring the camber in spec. I am assuming, of course, that you have checked the condition of the bushings, ball joints and trunnions. Wear in any of those will cause a movement in the negative camber direction with weight on the wheels.

If everything else is up to par, the the vert link is likely what is bent to cause a camber change. The vert link in these cars is very flimsy, so it is the first thing to get damaged if you bump a curb. I straightened mine very easily on a press, although it is a trial and error affair, and time consuming.

Another symptom of a bent link is hard steering, as the link places the trunion in a bind as the link turns.

Best

John
 
John, Thanks.
I replaced the bushings, ball joints, and trunnions on both sides about 200 miles ago so they should be ok and since I am the only driver it has not been bumped as I recall in the last 200 miles. Earlier it has had many bumps as a daily driver for 25 years and cross country several times. Steering has been normal except that on some of the crowned highways around here the car wants to move around out of a straight line. I will let everyone know the final results when I finish installing new shims to center the front brake pads, readjust the front wheel bearings and fix a flaw in the left front wing. It may be a while.

Hans
 
HJR said:
Steering has been normal except that on some of the crowned highways around here the car wants to move around out of a straight line.
Click to expand...
IMO that is normal for this design, and going more negative on camber won't particularly help.

Some people alleviate the problem by installing the components from a later TR4 to give 3 degrees of caster. Personally, I'm willing to accept that it doesn't "drive itself" like a modern car does in return for what I see as being extra nimble.
 
The down side of extra caster is also harder steering. I think Triumph knew the TR3 steering was already about as hard as they could get away with...

John
 
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