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Camber Adjustment [again]

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John Turney said:
Seems like a lot of money for something you can't do much about, and wouldn't use more than once.
Click to expand...

Oh, I think I can do quite a bit about it. My BN2 already has Kilmartin adjustable plates, and I'm considering Tom's plates for the BJ8 (I'll make clean cuts on the end of the mounts and put my new-found TIG skills to work). I've not found an alignment shop that can/will align to my specifications, and I ended up buying this little lift:

https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5,000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html

which should make 'tinkering' a bit easier. Both cars handle well enough, but the excessive positive camber in the BJ8 bugs me*, and I think I can do better on the BN2 (I'm thinking 0 camber and just a bit of toe-in for both). Now that I'm 'retired,' I'm stacking up projects in addition to farming. Besides, I have a birthday coming up, and everybody keeps asking me what I want ;)

I'm a'gonna 'stance' my Healeys.
 
Weird. Works for me. Anybody else have problems with the link (I'd edit it, but that's what's in the address bar in my browser)?

Edit: You can to to costco.com and search for 'automotive lift.'
 
I bought some Wolesley front lever arms that have shorter upper arms wish I could remember the model they came from. Took some finding even here in the uk. I'll get round to refurbing them and fitting in a year or two . They are supposed to give 1 to 2 degree -camber so I think fitted with eccentric top trunnion bushes I should be able to dial up an equal negative of 1.5 degrees both sides. Using just the eccentric top trunnion bushes I have 1 degree negative on the nearside and 3/4 on the offside . Near enough equal for now ..my ocd is a problem though and I constantly worry.....
Excessive Castor change by moving the top shock / arms backwards / forwards will cause binding on our suspension systems.
 
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