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TR2/3/3A caged nuts problems

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J

JAJohn

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I'm trying to take off the front apron of my 61 TR3A so I can eventually remove the engine. Everything across the top came off nicely. But in loosening the bolts inside of the wheel wells, all the left side bolts broke off at the bolt head, and on the right side all the bolts are apparently spinning inside the cages. Suggestions?
 
Definite Achilles’ heel. I’m reassembling mine after a complete body-off restoration, and I’ve had to replace two! On the left side, you can pry open one of the cage sides and remove/replace the nut. Use your vice grips to reform the cage. On the right side you can insert a screwdriver to hold the nut from spinning. Once you contact the paint, the nut should grip.

I have a bag of spares if you need some— Jim

TS 44743L “O”
 
It might be possible on the side where the heads broke off to push and pry the fender over to clear the apron. The side that is spinning try the suggestions. You might be able grind the heads off with a small die grinder and deal with it later. I have seen a saws-all used but there is a lot damage done to the sides.
 
By far the fastest solution is to grind the bolts off to remove the parts. Then go back and assess the cages. Replace the nut in a good cage or drill out a bad cage and replace it all.

For a Triumph restoration a grinder is more useful than a wrench in teardown.
 
Almost all caged nuts ground off, broke off, cage deformed or drilled out. Is there a suitable replacement? Bolts with crown washers? Bolts with nylon lock? Anything?
 
I used these applied with pop rivets.


McMaster-Carr


 90955A113 Aligning Weld Nut, Steel with Steel Retainer, 1/4"-28 Thread Size, packs of 10
1
pack​
 Dec 6
12.67
per pack​
12.67
​
 
I replaced all the broken cage nuts on my car with the aligning ones from McMaster as well. I drilled holes and used plug welds to hold them in. They are far better than the originals. I suppose the purest would point them out but I prefer what I assume will be a much better functionality over time.
 
There is no better solution than replacing the cage nuts. If you try to use a non-caged option, you will need at least 2 helpers to remove and install the fenders...and it normally takes several removals and re-installs before you get them aligned correctly.
 
I found it is easiest to go ahead and remove the cage nuts by drilling out the spot welds with a 6mm spot weld drill. Remove the old cage and nut and clamp a replacement cage & nut assembly or the McMaster-Carr nut into position and plug weld to attach using the 6mm holes. A pretty quick fix and it beats mucking around with the old ones. For a couple I clamped everything together using a finger tightened nut/bolt/washer to hold it in position while I welded.

The slotted nut cages are more of a challenge. I wasn't able to find anyone who one makes a decent replacement for those slotted cages with the factory 1/2" square nuts so I ended up rolling my own and refurbishing/reusing the factory nuts from the damaged cages.

Ron
 
Look up Fastenal.com They make it all and say 1,700 stores you might have to buy 25 or bag and may be course thread blind nuts pop nuts and many others. a auto section and general . Madflyer
 
I forgot to add that I ordered some replacement cage nuts from England. They are not the same as original since the original cage nuts came with a 1/2" square 1/4-28 nut and the replacements have a smaller 7/16" square 1/4-28 nut. The smaller nut provides slightly less adjustment when fitting body panels. I'm not sure if this matters much but thought I'd post my finding. One can always drill a larger hole in the panel to get more adjustment.

Ron
 
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