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Randy Forbes
Yoda
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The valve, painted with the engine, can be clearly seen directly above the wire marker on the #6 sparkplug lead. (handle looks broken, but this valve did rotate).
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by passed heater
- Thread starter Susan Lybolt
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healeyblue
Jedi Warrior
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The ball is the end you turn. You can just see where the handle would be screwed in if it were not broken off.
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That little valve is a tapered plug valve. The plug runs all the way through the valve body with the bottom end sticking out on the end opposite from the valve handle. The plug at that end has a small spring to keep it tight in the valve body (shown in your second photo). A light tap on that exposed end (and I do mean light) often frees up the valve enough to allow it to be turned with the handle (which I now see is missing).
Now that I see the photos, perhaps it would do to remove the cotter pin, washer and spring from the bottom of the valve and push the plug out. Then you can remove the broken handle and replace it.
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I would remove the valve from the engine block and attempt to clean it up, maybe with paint remover. The broken handle can be carefully drilled out. I drilled and tapped mine for 10-32 and substituted part of a longer allen screw (minus the head). The black allen screws are high-strength steel. The valve can now be operated with a cheater, such as a nut driver for leverage.
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The "valve stems" are available. The best way to free up the valve is to tap on it as "John" has said. I cleaned up the tapered stem, applied a little grease to it and reassembled it with a new handle. I think I must have about six valves for 100's and 3000's in a coffee can that I will repair some day when I have the time.
As I am in northern Florida, I keep my heater valve closed. That is what experienced Healey club members here recommended. However, upon purchase of the car I removed the valve, replaced the broken operating lever, and reinstalled the unit with a bit of anti-seize on the inside for future eventuality. I exercised the valve when I changed the coolant a couple of weeks ago. I also removed the block drain under the manifolds, cleaned it, and applied anti-seize to the interior before replacement. Interestingly, the coolant flowed freely from that valve's port on removal--I couldn't open it while it was in place--which I believe indicated the block was free of excessive sediment. Again, since I'm in Florida, I have detached the hoses from my heater fan and telescoped them together, also detaching the hose at the heater end. This gives a nice flow of cool air from the hose which dumps the air just above the package shelf in the passenger cockpit on my BN7 when the car is underway. Just to let my fellow Buckeyes know what life is like down here, I removed the side curtains from the car when I drove it down here from Virginia two years ago, and haven't had them back on the car. In fact, I don't even carry the top in the car, primarily because I don't use it and requires me to move the seat too far forward.
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Good assumption.
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I've had mine off a few times and, surprisingly, almost no coolant came out.
I suggest using an "easy out" to remove the broken off threaded portion of the handle stuck in the valve. This involves removal, drilling a small hole in the stub, and turning it out with the "easy out". I used a nice brass bolt/screw from my toilet repair junk to replace the handle, first adding a bit of rubber hose to give a more robust look to this replacement handle. Drilling out the stub is a riskier proposition.
CessnaTPA
Jedi Hopeful
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Well I repaired my heater valve today using the advice I got off here. My cotter pin disintegrated when I tried to pull it out and I had to drill it out.
I used a ez out to remove the broken old handle but buggered up the threads while doing so. I ended up drilling it all the way through and re-tapping it, I used a 10-24 bolt with 2 nuts to secure it in place. To neaten the handle I used some shrink tube to finish it off. Works great now and the cab is cooler.
I used a ez out to remove the broken old handle but buggered up the threads while doing so. I ended up drilling it all the way through and re-tapping it, I used a 10-24 bolt with 2 nuts to secure it in place. To neaten the handle I used some shrink tube to finish it off. Works great now and the cab is cooler.
Attachments
andrea
Jedi Knight
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I have repaired it flowing same Steveg procedure, now after TWO year in close position - I hope that it result free
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ALEY10061958?noredirect=1#5405035797394607938
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ATIONAUSTINHEALEY10061958#6146773953685248898
Attention in the past someone lamented that a new article acquired from one of the most used supplier, leaks immediately-
the function of the spring is to improve the seal - NOT correct spring -sure leaks!
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ALEY10061958?noredirect=1#5405035797394607938
https://picasaweb.google.com/112770...ATIONAUSTINHEALEY10061958#6146773953685248898
Attention in the past someone lamented that a new article acquired from one of the most used supplier, leaks immediately-
the function of the spring is to improve the seal - NOT correct spring -sure leaks!
andrea
Jedi Knight
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Steveg very strange that water NOT CAME OUT from the open valve or from the hole, especially if the level of cooling water exceeds the high of the thermostat, a usual condition on AH heads
Can be that water not came out if (a present) thermostat is closed??
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The engine was cold and the thermostat was closed. I probably had a cork handy to put in the hole and may have plugged the heater hose as it was removed from the valve. Just saying it was not necessary to half-drain the coolant from the engine in order to remove the valve. Easier to just deal with a small amount of leakage coming from the hole.
andrea
Jedi Knight
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as usual one elegant tool, from Steve-
probably is plugged the little hole of the valve---a new baling wire tool?in Italian "Fil di ferro"
On my car, after the strong cleaning at engine and radiator rebuilding, and addition of the antifreeze and rust inhibitor, water are very clean--apparently drinking water!
probably is plugged the little hole of the valve---a new baling wire tool?in Italian "Fil di ferro"
On my car, after the strong cleaning at engine and radiator rebuilding, and addition of the antifreeze and rust inhibitor, water are very clean--apparently drinking water!