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by passed heater

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The previous owner of my car bypassed the heater and let the valve open.
I think it adds to the circulation, so I let it be
The heater is going to be reconnected as soon as I have time for it
 
Considering that the heater was an option (all__or most__USA-bound cars had them fitted) and the parts lists offer lower radiator hoses for cars with and without the heater fitted, I saw no harm in removing the valve completely and covering the port with a blank plate.

If the hose on your car was routed back to the return pipe running the length of the head, you could leave the valve open or closed.

In my mind, the valve, connecting hoses, and the "take off" on the lower radiator hose are potentially leaks waiting to happen, I'm happier having eliminated them. I've had lower radiator hose "take offs" come unbonded and leak a couple of times, so I'm gun-shy about the subject (maybe hoses are made better now, but not much else is an improvement...).
 
I would suggest you turn off the valve for the summer and turn it on for the winter as I do. Turning off the flow of heated water will allow the heater core stay at, or very close to, ambient temperature and not add heated air to the cabin even with the heater vent opened.

I often drive my Healey on cold clear spring, winter, or fall days as well as through the summer heat. With the top down and the tonneau cover open only for the driver, heat bathes the driver as it escapes and provides a very pleasant environment. Although, as Randy indicates, the heater does provide the additional potential for a leak, this would also be true for all cars having a heater … including your daily driver.

Good luck and enjoy your Healey … all year,
Ray (64BJ8P1)
 
When I lived in the Central Valley of California, where the summer temps would reach 100, I started turning off the heater valve once I felt how hot the heater hose got. I certainly didn't want additional heat in the cabin.
 
Couple of points:

- If you close the valve, you won't have the 'last ditch' option of using the heater as an auxiliary radiator in case you start to overheat, say, pulling the grade up the Panamint Mountains out of Death Valley on a 115degF day (don't try this at home)

- It's a good idea to occasionally turn the valve on/off, as they tend to get stuck if not exercised, and it's easy to break the little brass handle off the valve (of course, I would NEVER do such a thing)
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Couple of points:

- If you close the valve, you won't have the 'last ditch' option of using the heater as an auxiliary radiator in case you start to overheat, say, pulling the grade up the Panamint Mountains out of Death Valley on a 115degF day (don't try this at home)

- It's a good idea to occasionally turn the valve on/off, as they tend to get stuck if not exercised, and it's easy to break the little brass handle off the valve (of course, I would NEVER do such a thing)
Click to expand...

:iagree: Even coming out of the valley on a hot summer day it can help.
 
Keoke, you should know better than to go to the Valley in the summer.:rolleyes2:
 
Keoke, you should know better than to go to the Valley in the summer.:rolleyes2:

I weren't goin I was comin out:highly_amused:
 
I don't think someone in Michigan needs to worry about "pulling the grade up the Panamint Mountains out of Death Valley on a 115degF day".

My heater is still intact, but I leave the valve on the block closed.
 
My heater is still intact, but I leave the valve on the block closed.

Well John:
Under those conditions the car owner and the little brass handle on the valve have been known to part the ways.
 
Keoke said:
My heater is still intact, but I leave the valve on the block closed.

Well John:
Under those conditions the car owner and the little brass handle on the valve have been known to part the ways.
Click to expand...
The judicious use of a small hammer prevents that.
 
John Turney said:
I don't think someone in Michigan needs to worry about "pulling the grade up the Panamint Mountains out of Death Valley on a 115degF day".
Click to expand...
Probably not, but I suspect people in Michigan get caught in traffic jams on a warm summer day, where an extra 2-3degF in cooling can make the difference between boiling over and not.
 
Keoke said:
My heater is still intact, but I leave the valve on the block closed.

Well John:
Under those conditions the car owner and the little brass handle on the valve have been known to part the ways.
Click to expand...
Those little brass handles are available now.
 
As of late in the Niagara Falls area,it 's been around 90, after repairing the "removable" heater handle with a miniscule amount of JB weld, i removed all the anti freeze and filled the radiator with water and WATER WETTER from redline- results, 170F. down from 200F, radiator is clear. as I was looking at my 2 row radiator, it dawned on me that they could have added another row, maybe 2 !.. any way , ok for now.
 
People that put the heather in the Austin Healey as OPTIONAL - was a very intelligent person -Remember that the car was build in GB, not famous for hot summer days- and famous for stormy in winter
 
I have a 57 100-6 that has a very hot cabin and want to turn off this heater valve. Where is it located and what tool will I need? Thanks.
 
CessnaTPA said:
I have a 57 100-6 that has a very hot cabin and want to turn off this heater valve. Where is it located and what tool will I need? Thanks.
Click to expand...

It's near (between?) the #5 and #6 cylinders, on the starboard side of the engine. Theoretically, it can be turned by hand but if it hasn't been 'exercised' occasionally it will likely be frozen and the handle will break off when you try to turn it. All you can do is soak with a good penetrant, try to move it by hand then try with leverage, in which case the handle is likely to break. You can try to disassemble the valve in place and gently tap the movable part out, but I've never done this so can't speak to your chances.

Think there might be a valve on the heater itself, but don't recall for sure. If so, and you can't budge the valve on the engine you might try this one instead.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
It's near (between?) the #5 and #6 cylinders, on the starboard side of the engine. Theoretically, it can be turned by hand but if it hasn't been 'exercised' occasionally it will likely be frozen and the handle will break off when you try to turn it. All you can do is soak with a good penetrant, try to move it by hand then try with leverage, in which case the handle is likely to break. You can try to disassemble the valve in place and gently tap the movable part out, but I've never done this so can't speak to your chances.

Think there might be a valve on the heater itself, but don't recall for sure. If so, and you can't budge the valve on the engine you might try this one instead.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick response and detailed description.
I'm slowly narrowing down the culprits of why the cabin is so hot, so far I've plugged several holes in the firewall, discovered the fresh air valve was stuck closed and now will eliminate the radiant heat coming from the heater .
 
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