• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Burning Fuses & my patience..running out of both

Share this page

Re: Burning Fuses & my patience..running out of bo

HI Geo, I can not follow your logic. For example if you want to locate a blown fuse using a test light, the light will only light when the fuse is blown.This is to say that the light only lights when a voltage drop occurs across it. Conequently, when you open a wired circuit one end always ends up at ground and the light will light the moment power is applied to it.---Fwiw---Keoke?
 
Hi TR6Bill, What size and type fuse are you runing in that circuit now and what size is called for in the factory manual ?.---Keoke
 
35 amp Lucas. Frankly, I don't know what the manual calls for. Guess I should look it up. Wouldn't it be great if I needed a much larger fuse. I should be so lucky. Will look it up tonight.

Bill
 
Now that I know that it is my brand new heater that is causing me to burn a fuse, I think I will try to perform orthoscopic surgery to check out the internal wiring connections inside the heater housing. I just don't relish putting the car back on jack stands ( it just came off after three months in the air), draining the coolant and , Lord forbid, remove the dang heater again. I removed the rear left air hose and, behold, an electrical connection was visible. Will have to use hemostats to get it off. Bet the left side will allow me to access the other connections as well as check the fan for binding. If I can redo my connections and with some incredible luck, I might be able to solve the problem. I already have the unit on it's own circuit with it's own 35 amp Lucas fuse (I was so tempted to try an American buss fuse with a higher blow rate but know I would probably ignite the car). Wish me luck. My vacation this week started with some needed maintainence at my office, turned into 3 days of brutal plumbing problems. Vacation almost over. Bummer. I oh so wanted to cruise to New Orleans, bring my hand-me-down laptop (my son was kind enough to rework his old one and put in wireless internet for me for Christmas) and watch the pretty young girls at my favorite coffee shop whilst surfing britishcarforum.com. Life is good, sometimes.




Bill /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/nopity.gif
 
HI TR6Bill, I have been thinking that you may have gotten a new blower motor in that unit that is uprated. Since you have the unit isolated from the other harness circuits or can do so easily. I would suggest measuring the current draw of the motor and then install an American Buss Slow Blow fuse with a rating equal to 1 & 1/2 times the measured current. The slow blow fuses are best operated with motor type loads.---Keoke
 
Back
Top