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Bumpers, radiators, and gas tanks

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blacksummerrain

blacksummerrain

Freshman Member
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Hi All,

I'm puttering away on a '72 TR6 restoration and need some opinions/suggestions related to the following:

My front and rear bumpers are dinged and the chrome is visibly pitted. Economically, is it better to buy new, aftermarket replacements or have the factory items repaired and rechromed. I hear the quality of the aftermarket bumpers is not quite as good. However, I haven't heard whether that pertains to their strength or their appearance. I'm probably more interested in a nice look.

If it is advisable to repair and rechrome, can anyone recommend a company that is reasonably priced and does a good job? Also, what might I be looking at price-wise?

Second, I have two older radiators in my garage and both of them have bent fins, need repainting, etc. Am I better off buying a new radiator (VB has 'em for $180.00 right now) or getting one of my existing ones recored? What can I expect to pay to have one recored?

Lastly, the car I'm restoring sat for 10 years and the fuel in the gas tank was not drained. I need to clean out the tank and wondered if anyone can suggest a means to clean it out good on my own? The tank appears to be structurally sound.

I'm in the New Orleans area if anyone can suggest local resources for having any of this work done.

Thanks, in advance, for your suggestions.

-Scott
 
You can expect to pay somewhere between $1,000 to $1,200 for top quality chrome plating of your two bumpers which would include the fixing of the dents. This would be a triple plate process and is the only way to go if you are going to spend money on rechroming.

Buy a new radiator and forget about it for the rest of the time that you own the car. Remove thermostat, flush block and heater PRIOR to installing new radiator and a new thermostat. Naturally use a new mix of 50/50 coolant and water.

If you can take the tank out, got to a local shop that will steam or boil it out for you. Some radiator shops do this work as well. Repaint it and you're good to go. Replace the fuel lines from the tank to the steel lines.

EDIT:

I almost missed that you're new here so; "Welcome to the Triumph forum".
 
If money is an object, have your radiators tested and cleaned at a local shop. If okay, straighten fins with a fin comb and repaint. A recore will probably cost about as much as a new unit. One advantage is there are different cores that may be more efficient in cooling than what is available new.
Chroming will be more expensive than new, but will be better quality. Repro chrome quality is not the best. If you can find NOS, it will usually be scratched or damaged.
 
I recently had my 71 radiator soaked/boiled, pressure tested, and repaired for $50 in Nashville. I then bought a can of high temp black paint and painted the body, avoiding the fins. The shop I used said if they couldn't repair it I wouldn't owe them anything. Overall I very happy with the result. If it couldn't be repaired I planned on replacing it with a new one.
 
Hey Scott. And welcome to the forum. Are you aware that the British Motoring Club of New Orleans is having their big annual British Car Day at Delgado Junior College on March 24th of the this year. Perhaps you have been, maybe not. It is always a great show, well over 100 cars, this year even more than usual I think. Mark your calender.
 
blacksummerrain said:
Lastly, the car I'm restoring sat for 10 years and the fuel in the gas tank was not drained. I need to clean out the tank and wondered if anyone can suggest a means to clean it out good on my own? The tank appears to be structurally sound.
Click to expand...

An old trick for cleaning out a sound gas tank is to remove it and totally wash it out with water till there is no gas fumes left. Then, drop in about 1 or 2 feet of heavy chain and roll the tank around till your arms want to fall off. This, of course, is done in a totally dry tank, clean and dry. If you can peer inside with a strong flashlight and see no rust or almost no rust, you can probably go ahead and paint the outside. Leave the inside unpainted. The chain will clean off the surface rust.
 
Remove chain before re-installing tank in car.

Sorry, couldn't resist!
 
Does all the gas have to be out of the tank before the chain goes in???
 
Yep

DNK said:
Does all the gas have to be out of the tank before the chain goes in???
Click to expand...

Only if you do not want it to go KaBoom!
 
Re: Yep

I figure if Dr J can be a smart ### so could I
 
Hey Bill,

I've been to the show several times but not for a couple of years now. I am planning to get there this year. I bought a few parts from one of the members - Joe Daquila - several years ago. He's got a TR6 and a TR7 and lives near Lafayette.

I've got a '72 TR6 I'm working on which is pretty much disassembled. It's a factory overdrive car which was originally purchased in England (I have the original bill of sale from British Leyland with the cost listed in pounds). I've got the hardtop, too. However, it was pretty much a basket case when I got it and has needed a lot of body work, engine rebuild, etc. I just need to get it over the painting hump so I can start reassembling it.

I had heard of the chain-in-the-gas-tank approach before. Just didn't know if it was effective or if I needed to use any other chemicals in the process. This is probably the approach I'll take.

Perhaps I'll see you at the show if you're there. I'd like to see your car.

Thanks, Scott
 
I have heard the chain approach works for a sound gas tank to loosen up surface rust. It should then be followed with a tank coating process from POR, Eastwood, or other vendors.

Mine had holes in it, so off to the radiator shop. Cost $200 for boiling, hole repair, pressure test, and an interior coating.

Ray
 
Thanks, to everyone, for the insights and suggestions, thus far. I'm probably leaning towards new bumpers and a new radiator and will restore my gas tank.

I did some searching on the site and some folks are stating that the Moss repro bumpers are of pretty good quality. Too, I'll keep an eye out on E-Bay for some decent ones.
 
I just recently handled all three items you have mentioned. For $620 I had seven items, including both bumpers, straightened, rechromed/plated by a fantastic shop in Tucson, Arizona. Ideal Plating. Been around for 50 years and work on lots of cars, especially classics. I'd definitely save your old bumpers if they originally were of good structure.

On the radiator, I'd keep the old one and have it checked, but if anything significant is wrong with it, like bad rust, holes, etc., I'd just buy a new one since they are available. I don't know that I'd have the courage to toss the old one, but for running around I wouldn't want to be pulling my radiator every year. Bent fins don't seem like much of a concern.

On the fuel tank, VB has such a low price I'd even consider a new one--that's what I did, bought a new one. I keep my old one because I'm a pack rat and a coward. POR 15 makes a product they guarantee will seal old pin holes and leaks, and restore a tank to new, but I had a mental block about running around with a 50 year old tank with sealer in it. Don't underestimate what age does to a tank. My old one was great looking, and only after months did I discover the real source of gas odor. Almost invisible rusted pin holes.

So, I opt for new radiator and tank if needed, and keep the steel, bumpers, etc. for replating and chroming.
 
The new rads from VB are made in China, iffy quality.

Much better idea to have your existing brass tanks soldered to a new 3 or 4 row core at a local shop. I did this recently with my MGB. Wasn't cheap ($300ish) but it is perfect and waranteed for 3 years.

rad.jpg
 
Kentvillehound said:
For $620 I had seven items, including both bumpers, straightened, rechromed/plated by a fantastic shop in Tucson, Arizona. Ideal Plating. Been around for 50 years and work on lots of cars, especially classics.
Click to expand...

I'm glad to see Ideal is still around. They were my chrome shop of choice when I lived in Tucson 35 years ago.
Jeff
 
I had a bunch of OEM parts stripped and rechromed by Paul's Chrome, near Pittsburgh PA. They came back *perfect*. Very satisfied customer, I wont use anyone else.
 
Sorry if anyone is offended by this response but I do not want to see anyone injured or worse.

When working with an old gas tank it is most dangerous when empty. Even if filling it with water and dumping it out it will again develop an explosive mix of fumes in only a very few minutes. Anything in or near that tank that can cause a spark can cause it to get real big in a very short time. The reason is that the metal of the tank will retain enough residue for a long long time to renew the fumes.

I used to weld old tanks and there is a process to go through to make them safe to work on and just dumping the gas is definitely not enough. No, I will not tell how. Do like Ray and go to a professional.
 
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