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Bullet Connectors

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rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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I'm trying to find Bullet connectors on Moss. I ordered what I thought were the right thing, but they ended up being wire connectors, rather than the little bullets that hold wires to lights and such.

Anyone have a P/N?
 
162-200 looks to be the Moss P/N. However they are solder type (as original).
 
R-

You really, really need to go to
British Wiring: Buy the crimping tool and bullet
pliers. Nothing against Moss but BW are the experts
when it comes to TR wires and connectors. Great
folks to work with. If you're not in great hurry,
they will even send you samples.

The crimping tool is $ pricey but has many uses around
the house. Don't scrimp on this tool.

Also get a mini-torch propane to solder the bullets.
Purchase an extra 50 bullets more than you think you
will need.

good luck,

d /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
I don't really see exactly what I have. Mine aren't crimped.

Mine just look like little tiny bullets, and the wire goes through the middle, out the little hole in the noes, then gets wrapped under. The whole thing is then shoved snugly into the clip.
 
There are two styles of those bullets. Those that can be crimped or soldered, or those that are only soldered. The crimping tool sold by British Wiring is different from the crimping tool that you're used to seeing. Dan Masters says he'll never solder another bullet after using that tool. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

I can't afford the luxury of the tool at this point in time, so I'll just keep on soldering.

BTW, when you do solder them, feed the solder down through that hole in the top. That's what it's there for. The wire shouldn't protrube through the hole.
 
rlandrum said:
Mine just look like little tiny bullets, and the wire goes through the middle, out the little hole in the noes, then gets wrapped under. The whole thing is then shoved snugly into the clip.
Click to expand...
Oh yeah, forgot about those. I think Moss has them as P/N 157-107 ... but I would suggest you forget them too and use either solder or crimp type.
 
Absolutely /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif

If ya go the crimp style, the tool is a mandatory purchase. As Art has said: I'm cheap and I trust my soldering skills, so prefer the "old" style solder ones. Thirty plus years repairing ALL sorts of old English wiring has never given me grief. Biggest enemy of Lucas electrics is a half-fast tech pig-tailing, ScothcLok-ing or otherwise dodging a proper fix. Resistance due to corrosion in the "couplings" is about the only thing to cause problems, IMO. A .22 cal. copper, bore "bottle brush" and some electrolytic grease is good preventative medicine there.
 
The 157-107's are larger in diameter than the 162-200's, and are not meant to be soldered on. The crimp/solder type won't be held firmly in the connector on the lamp.
Jeff
 
rlandrum said:
...look like little tiny bullets, and the wire goes through the middle, out the little hole in the noes, then gets wrapped under. The whole thing is then shoved snugly into the clip.
Click to expand...

Like this?
 

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Bugeye58 said:
The crimp/solder type won't be held firmly in the connector on the lamp.
Click to expand...
If that's a problem, just crimp the connector closed a bit more. My TR3A has nothing but solder-type bullets, and they work fine for me.
 
eschneider said:
rlandrum said:
...look like little tiny bullets, and the wire goes through the middle, out the little hole in the noes, then gets wrapped under. The whole thing is then shoved snugly into the clip.
Click to expand...

Like this?
Click to expand...
AHA! NOW we're getting somewhere! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

For whatever it's worth, that pictured object is called (by Lucas) a terminal sleeve and is Lucas part number 555910.

I didn't see them in a quick glance in British Wiring's catalogue, although I suspect they have them. In a "Google" search of "Lucas 555910" I get a number of responses, including this one as one example.
 
Pretty much anything that is legal for sale over the counter in California won't have any significant amount of benzene in it. Caig offers several different formulas, but all are supposed to be safe for plastics. One even has no solvent at all (according to their data sheet).
https://store.caig.com/
 
eschneider said:
rlandrum said:
...look like little tiny bullets, and the wire goes through the middle, out the little hole in the noes, then gets wrapped under. The whole thing is then shoved snugly into the clip.
Click to expand...

Like this?
Click to expand...

On my car, that type of bullet connector is used only for grounds - on the connectors of the side & taillight bulbs, etc.

The solder-type bullet connectors are used for all other connections.

I can see that the non-soldered, fold-the-wire-over connector would be accemptable for grounds, but probably would be troublesome on the other lines.
 
rotoflex said:
I can see that the non-soldered, fold-the-wire-over connector would be accemptable for grounds, but probably would be troublesome on the other lines.
Click to expand...
Can you expand a little on that thinking ? Clearly Standard-Triumph felt the same way, so there must be some logic to it, but it sure escapes me. Bad ground = non-working light, just the same as bad wire to the light, right ?
 
Yup. If either one gets "funny" the dreaded electronus inturruptus raises it's ugly head. Stickin' wires thru the hole of that "earthworm's helmet" and spreading 'em around to HOPE it'll be reliable always struck me as folly. I'd solder 'em every time. The spring thingie receiver can be deformed a bit to add better contact. Dielectric grease is your friend, too.
 
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