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Bugsy IV and Engine Compression :[

Jim_Gruber

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Guys here's the tale of the Compression Gauge.

Oil Pressure popped up to 60 psi after I primed the pump.

The Compression readings

#1 90 psi
#2 70 psi
#3 45 psi
#4 90 psi

So when I first started cranking this engine by hand there was a spot where the engine stopped and I could not turn over. I added a Tbs of oil to each spark plug hole and let it sit for two days. I then came back and alternated rotating directions never forcing anything. All of a sudden I could feel things giving way, backed up he other direction and things began to rotate freely through 360 degrees by hand turning the generator nut.

Supposedly this was a rebuilt engine. It could be as number plate is missing. Where do I go from here. Unknown how long this engine has been sitting. It could be years and years. Do I attempt to start it and see if a stuck ring gets unstuck. Pull the head and check valve gasket. Retorque things. This will not be the permanent engine. I've got a 1275 and a 5 speed that will be going into this BE but the 1275 needs a valve job/replacement head milled and valves seats checked.

Plan is to make this a rolling restoration while the other engine is being worked on. I'm also trying to get this car running for Dayton British Car Days on August 6. Thoughts gentleman?
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Throttle was wide open. I did not check valve gaps.
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Hey what else can I do at this point. I need to pop in dizzy, cap, plugs, wires, change throttle cable as it is sticking wide open, and add radiator, hoses, and coolant. Radiator will be ready on Wednesday or Thursday. Check valve lash first and give it a whirl.
 

Rut

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Jim,
Pull those plugs and add a larger quantity of MMO or something similar, or possibly Seafoam and let it soak while you work on other stuff. After a few days the rings might free up and you can turn it over with the starter to help the process. If there's cylinder wall pitting or a broken ring you're not going to fix it since you have the 1275 waiting. Once you get everything else ready try another compression check and if it's no better pull the head and do a look see on the cylinder walls and valves. If the valves have a little rust or minor pitting just try lapping them in by hand. If everything looks decent after that throw the head and old gasket on, torque it down and check again. If compression is halfway decent fire that sucker up and drive it like you stole it...best thing for an engine like this IMHO!
Rut
 

nomad

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i think I would check valve clearances and run it. Low compression could be caused by valve leakage that might well heal itself. Having said that though I have never been able to unstick a rusty engine and end up with one that was easy on oil! You have little to loose though!.

Kurt
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Possible but I did get 45 lbs out of it. Did not get a chance to get into the garage tonight. The grass was calling, the grass was calling. I'll pick up some MMO tomorrow and let it soak for a few days. In the meantime I can pick up the radiator tomorrow, box of parts and pieces arrived this PM from AH Spares. Not bad ordered on Thursday PM, arrives on Tuesday from the UK. Faster service than ordering domestically.
 

SD Bugeye

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You could have a tenant or two in the back side of the intake - exhaust crude between valve face - seat
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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Always a possibility that something crawled in there. Whatever it was it worked it's way out. I'll keep working it.
 
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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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That's the plan guys. Will need to fix throttle cable, swap dizzy's, new plugs and wires and then see if it will at least fires with a little starting fluid at least momentarily. Need to complete radiator install and hoses as well as think about a fuel pump that does not scream when power is applied. Goal is to know that engine will start before the end of the weekend.
 
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