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Bugsy 2 - Time to start some Electrolytic Rust Removal

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Jim_Gruber

Jim_Gruber

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I finally had some time on Bugsy 2 yesterday and did some time working on Sub Assemblies that need to go out for rework. Dual Master was extricated from the pedal box. It didn't want to come out without a fight. But PB Blaster and a few taps with the rubber mallet got it out so it can get on it's way to Gerard to be resleeved as a 3/4" Master. Rest of the parts, springs, pushrods, et al need to be subjected to some electrolytic rust removal to see if the rusted parts and pieces can be cleaned up and made salvageable. The pivot bolt for the pedal box is all knackered up on the threads for the locking nut. It appears AH Spares sells a replacement for 6.5 pounds. Time to figure out what else I'll need to get shipped in the same box.
06 08 13 Dual Master 2 resized.jpg06 08 13 Dual Master resized.jpg

I also pulled the wishbones apart, removed suspension buffers, and they are on the way to Apple Hydraulics to get new metal bushings brazed in. You can't see it on pictures but one of the bushings is worn on the inside such that the fulcrum was sitting off center. Threads trashed and no way a new fulcrum pin would screw in there. For just over $200 Wishbones will come back in a week, sandblasted, straightened as needed, new bushings brazed in, and primered and ready to be reassembled. Careful examination shows no cracks or issues. If you are thinking about getting this done, carefully look at the undersides of the wishbones. Inadequate greasing at regular intervals cause the fulcrum pins to sieze up in the bushing and cause cracks in the A-Arm. I spent an entire afternoon 2 years ago giving up lots of pieces of skin and blood pulling a set of A-Arms out of a Spridget going to the crusher. When I got the parts home and removed the grease I found both A-Arms cracked and unrepairable. The fulcrum pin rotating in the metal bushing is the key wear point in the front suspension. For an extra $5 you can get a 2nd grease fitting installed as well.
06 08 13 Wishbones 1 Resized.jpg

I'll post the results of the electrolytic rust removal. Gerard, you'll see this Master in a few days. Need to find a suitable box.
 
Jim,
I've used electrolytic rust removal many, many times on old tools and some car parts. It's fun and all but once I bought a gallon of Evapo-Rust... I don't see my battery charger doing anything but charge batteries from now on. Especially on a handful of loose bolts, springs etc., Evapo-Rust is much easier/effective. My .02.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
I'll post the results of the electrolytic rust removal. Gerard, you'll see this Master in a few days. Need to find a suitable box.
Click to expand...

hi Jim,

Ship it to me anyway you like, but the cheapest way is to use a USPS Regional Rate Box A. It's just the right size. Otherwise you can use a Medium Flat Rate box. You can only get the Regional boxes online through the USPS web site, so you may not want to bother and just use UPS or FedEx. Just make sure the cylinder is as dry as possible and please double bag it in two Ziplock bags. Make sure it's snugly packed in the box. Otherwise the weight of it slogging around can tear the box.
 
My arm was cracked and I welded it up. That was 10 years/50K ago and no trouble since and we have TERRIBLE roads down here.
 
You can buy brand new control arms with pins painted ready to install from AH Spares for $135.00 each. If I had rust I would sand blast the car after all the metal work has been done. You may create a lot of head aches introducing chemicals to body that could come back to bite you. Sand is inert and does a great job cleaning. For best results remove undercoating too before blasting, then prime with epoxy.
 
I've never used electrolytic rust removal methods, but it's hard to imagine anything easier or more effective than Evapo-Rust. It actually works by chelating the oxidized iron, which means that a large molecule binds to the oxidized iron molecule and lifts it away from the good steel. It's completely non corrosive to nonrusted metal. It's biodegradable, and in fact I think it should actually be an effective iron fertilizer, particularly for areas with high pH soil that require chelated iron as the only form that plants can use. I used gallons of the stuff during my restoration.
 
Time to pick some up tonight and get that process going. Thanks for the tip guys!
 
Where do you get this evapo-rust stuff?
I've never seen it.
 
Rick,
Home Depot, Lowes, auto parts houses, Walmart, etc.
Rut
 
Oh really? Thanks!
 
$29.95 a gallon list, available as low as $22.95 a gallon on line. Supposedly this stuff is safe to dump down the sewer. May need to stain out the big chunks. Does not work well when temps go below 60 degrees. Says do not pour back into the bottle. Put it someplace loosely covered and allow it to breathe. After it gets black, or stops working, buy another bottle. Sounds like miracle stuff.
 
$4.49/qt at Lowes currently. Other car forums say as low as 1.49/qt at their local Lowes.
Rut
 
Even Cheaper. I like it, Hey also available as a 55 gallon drum for those really rusty Spridgets.
 
Make sure you de-grease BEFORE using the sauce... If you don't, you won't be impressed. If you do, you will.
 
Will do. Again need the time to get to the garage.
 
Well let's try it and see.
 
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