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Bugeye wiring harness

Rut

Obi Wan
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Good evening,
I'm to the point of needing to install a new wiring harness in my Bugeye. I have a 1275 with Crane ignition, halogen lights, front tilt, etc and wonder if I should just order the stock BE harness or one for a later car. What's a good source for a quality one?
Thanks, Rut
 
Rut,

I would order the BE harness and make your modifications to it. The later harnesses will have a lot of wiring you won't need, which you will likely find the extra wires only confuse things--and one of the great beautiful things about the early cars is their simple wiring. You will have to pay more for a later harness anyway.

I got mine from British Wiring (britishwiring.com), and they source them from the UK. If you call and talk to them they may be able to do some customizing for you to accommodate such things as the front tilt. They put in headlight relays for me, for example, and I wish now I had asked for some other modifications as well.

Just my 2 cents' worth.
Charlie
 
You may want to ask for a quick disconnect for the bonnet so ot os easy to remove. On Bugsy I use a 6 way trailer harness plug with all of the Grounds consolidated to a single wire. A Tie Wrap keeps it securely together so I can remove the entire bonnet in < 10 minutes by myself if needed.
 
Charlie,
Thanks for the info. During disassembly I found all of the 'bullet' connectors just had the wire folded over vs soldered. That can't be the way it was designed is it?
Thanks, Rut
 
I ordered mine from AH Spares in the UK. Good price and good reviews. I've bought many things from them. Their prices are significantly lower, but shipping to the US is pretty high. Net you end up a little cheaper on most things, some things more than others.
Their harnesses are very good quality, UK made.
Fred
 
Hi Rut
My understanding is that all of the wiring harnesses come from the same manufacturer in the UK. I liked being able to get all the other junk you will need from the same place.

There is a special bullet connector crimping tool you can buy from British Wiring, that will lock the bullet connectors in place. It costs $55. If you download the British Wiring catalog you can see it on page 28. I don't know how well it works--probably quite well. The bullet connectors that were actually included in my new harness were crimped and they seem tight.

And, you can also solder them on. That is what I did--I just bought a little butane torch and you stick the wire into the connector--which has a small hole in the end, put a little heat on it and go. If this was a job I thought I would ever do twice I would get the crimper. It would just save a lot of time (and some burned fingers).

Order a dozen extra bullets and also, some new Lucar connectors from BW. You will need them, and that will enable you to start out with clean metal and soft rubber sheaths--50 year old Lucar connectors are just not going to work very well. You can see on your wiring diagram everywhere a Lucar connector is needed--it is represented by a little rectangle.

I also highly recommend buying a professional quality ratchet style terminal crimper for ring and spade connectors, such as the one shown in the catalog. You can get a better price on eBay if you want to go to the trouble. The cheap crimpers are no good and should be outlawed. Treat yourself to a professional quality wire stripper and cutter.

You will need this because your harness will come with a lot of ends which were not equipped with terminals. (I suppose it is because the harness was supposed to be "as original" LOL). And, because there have been changes to components over the years (e.g. I have seen ignition switches and brake light switches with both screw and push on terminals) you will want to get these on right.

I also added dedicated grounds to the rear light fixtures and gauges--you will save yourself a lot of headaches in the years to come by not depending on any ground that is supposed to come through the body of the car (such as the left rear lights.)

I will offer you a couple other bits of advice here... I bought a PVC covered harness instead of the cotton covered. It was a little cheaper. If you are doing a restoration the cotton covered is cool, but if you are going to be adding ground wires to the back lights as I did, it is nice to be able to tape these right to the new harness.

I cannot imagine doing the wiring with the dash in the car. I had it out, getting it recovered with vinyl, and did my wiring on the bench before I stuck it in. I also spent a little time labeling the wires before I actually started to do the job. The green/brown vs. green/red wires vs. green/black vs green/pink wires are hard to tell apart even in the sunshine, let alone on your back looking under the dash.

If they are going to make your harness for you in the UK, one thing you could do is ask (I think the guy at British Wiring is named Josh BTW) if they could put higher gauge wires in for brake lights, turn signal circuits, and running lights and horn. These are of minimal gauge, just as they were originally.

Best,
Charlie
 
Wiring looms are manufacture by Autospark in the UK. British Wiring gets them from Autospark. The problem is that you can’t order direct from AutoSpark if you live here in the USA. British Wiring has exclusive distribution rights for the USA. In my case I needed parts from AH Spares and discuss with them about having AutoSpark custom building a wiring loom for my Bugeye. It took a lot of emails from AH Spares and AutoSpark and me but we finely were able to build the harness to my specifications. They didn’t like the Idea at first, but I had to ask them $ please. Now I want have to modify the harness in any way, it will have everything that I wanted and still look factory to some extent because it will all be contain in the cloth wiring loom.
 
Rut,
I bought all new harnesses for my BE, added three relays and a bunch of fuses. I put all the fuses and relays behind the instrument panel. None of the nosey Concours judges have seen it yet. I did add an electric fuel pump (1275) and substituted an electronic control box (new insides, old outsides, same wiring). I modified the standard harness to suit. I used the solder type bullet connectors, but next time I would use the crimp type and just buy the tool. If you want additional information, let me know by PM and your email address.
Cheers,
Scott
 

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I used a British Wiring harness and crimp tool when I redid the Tunebug, and it came out really nicely. Wired the dash with it in the car, wasn't too hard at all. Easy enough to get up behind a Bugeye dash.
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Easy enough to get up behind a Bugeye dash.[/QUOTE]

Ummm...just because it was for you doesn't mean it is for everyone.
 
The_architect said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Easy enough to get up behind a Bugeye dash.

Ummm...just because it was for you doesn't mean it is for everyone. [/QUOTE]
True enough. I found it fairly simple, though, with lots of room back there to work -- and I'm a fairly big guy (6'1" 200#). YMMV.

I dread working on my MGB dash -- much more restricted.
 
HAving the seats out when you do the job makes all the difference in the world.
 
The_architect said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Easy enough to get up behind a Bugeye dash.

Ummm...just because it was for you doesn't mean it is for everyone. [/QUOTE]

I seem to have memories of my head next to the pedals, my butt in the seat and my legs hanging over the rear deck.
 
And this is easier...how? I mean, gee, guys, the dash is only held on by two nuts on each end and two in the middle. I guess when you have arthritis, a bad back, and need reading glasses to see anything closer than five feet away, you get good at working smarter--not harder.
 
You guys kill me! Drew, I'm 6'01" and 205# on a good day, more on a bad and I struggle to get in some places on the BE. What I'm trying to do, like everyone else, is get it right the first time. I'm looking at the different choices I have for a harness, fuse box/panel, relay set-up, etc. to try to make this work with a little touch of modern technology...all things electrical. I'm trying to break this resto down into groups to study and map out a plan. I spent the first 6 months getting everything running and sorted out to make sure I had what I needed, now I'm starting to strip it down and get it ready for the body work and paint. Thanks for the advice and keep it coming!
Rut
 
The_architect said:
And this is easier...how? I mean, gee, guys, the dash is only held on by two nuts on each end and two in the middle. I guess when you have arthritis, a bad back, and need reading glasses to see anything closer than five feet away, you get good at working smarter--not harder.
It just didn't seem that hard to me when I did it I guess, never occurred to me that I needed to do it a different way. Everyone's different. :smile:
 
At 6'3" and 230 lbs I'm finding that the lose of dexterity and flexibility that comes with age is the biggest issue when working in tight quarters.
 
Ray, I'm smaller than you, but at 61 my flexibility has moved on and I have a lot of difficulty getting in some of those places. On another note will you be going to Nashville in October and Chattanooga in November since it's in your neck of the woods? My wife and I plan on coming up and I really want her to see what a Bugeye CAN look like!
Thanks, Rut
 
I removed the old harness yesterday and was surprised at the small gauge wire and at the simplicity of the harness, at least the rear portion. This makes me think I could put one together without too much trouble. Who has made their own harness and can you offer any advice?
Thanks, Rut
 
Just thinking about Nashville and Chattanooga this morning. May go to both. Chattanooga is more likely.

I have a NOS BMC rear wiring harness section that I might be willing to part with. This is the section that runs from the dash to the rear lights and fuel tank sending unit.
 
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