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Bugeye Main Switch

Joe Schlosser

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My 60 Bugeye came with out a key (50 years ago), the original owner must have lost it and ran a separate switch for the ignition. I would like to bring it back to the way it was supposed to be. I bough an aftermarket key for the main switch.
It fits and turns a little but after 50 years of not being operated it wont go all the way. I don't want to make a mess of it and ruin the original switch. I see that Moss sells the switch in 3 pieces. Can any one tell me how to take the switch apart?? It will be part of my overall dashboard restoration in the fall.
Thanks
Joe
 

Griz

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Joe,

There is a wire keeper that holds the whole switch assembly in the dash. Remove that and the switch can be pulled from the dash. Make note of which wires attach to each post on the back side and remove them. Now you can take the switch to a convenient place to work on it. The body of the switch is encapsulated in a metal can with a Bake-a-lite (plastic) back. The metal can has 3 or 4 crimps that hold the back on. Use a small screw driver or similar tool to gently pry the crimps away and the back should come right off. I must warn you that I disassembled mine MANY years ago and can't quite remember now, but I believe there may be a few contact pieces and springs hiding under the back, so be careful when removing and be very sure to document what goes where so it can be reassembled correctly. Good luck, hope this helps.

Griz
 

Whitephrog

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The currently available switch that are made under the Lucas name are all but junk in my opinion.
 

smaceng

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I believe this is how to remove the key barrel from the BE ignition switch.
First disconnect the battery. Remove the wire keeper on the back of the switch. Remove the wires, keeping track where they went.
If that is what you mean, you need the key and the lock out of the dash. 29563.jpg Look for a hole. Put the key in the lock and turn it slowly while looking in the hole. Eventually you should see a small pin, probably brass. Depress that pin with a bent paperclip or similar and then pull the core out of the lock body using the key.
good luck...Scott in CA
 

smaceng

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BTW, my Heritage Trust Report indicated what the key # was when the car was delivered. If my chance the key barrel has not been changed, I believe a new key can be cut with this #.
Scott in CA
 

Whitephrog

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Should be a number something like FP670. If you remove the barrel without a key installed the tumblers will go wacky. Don't ask me how I know.
 

apbos

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When I got my car it did not have a key either. When I took the dash apart I found a key attached to the speedo. I understand they may have left the factory this way so the car could be moved during shipment. Worth a look.image.jpg
Regards
Paul
 

Rut

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When I got my car it did not have a key either. When I took the dash apart I found a key attached to the speedo. I understand they may have left the factory this way so the car could be moved during shipment. Worth a look.View attachment 44488
Regards
Paul
One of my 67 TR4as still had a key in the right rear tail light the way it was shipped, still wrapped in the original paper.
Rut
 
OP
Joe Schlosser

Joe Schlosser

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Thanks Everyone.
I have a new key, made according to the numbers on the barrel. It fits and turns a little but it look s like I will need to take everything apart to get it to work. Barrel has not moved in 50 years.
Iwould like to keep the orig headlight switch so I need to be careful.
I am going to drop the dash and recover it this fall.
Joe
 

smaceng

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Try a little powered graphite in the lock. Work it back and forth a bunch of times and see if that frees it up.
Scott in CA
 
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