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Tips

Bugeye ignition light still on- help please

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Jack,
That hose clamp is a great idea.

The letters on the back of my switch were entirely different than the wiring schematic, no relationship to them whatsoever which is why I didn't refer to them==plenty of confusion already!

Best,
Charlie
 
I used a thin hose clamp on mine.
Easy to ring out the connections on the switch. the brown wire is connected to the white wire when the key is turned ON.
The brown wire is connected to the red wire when the light knob is turned to the 1st position. The brown wire is connected to the blue and the red wires when the light knob is turned to the 2nd position.

Cheers,
Scott in CA
 
guess I wasn't too helpful. Maybe you have to have an orginal switch for the letters to be correct?
 
You were definitely helpful. Just sharing my experience. I have two of those switches--neither original, so you are probably right. They have letters on them just not the right ones. Might have been off a Morris or some other old BMC car?

Charlie
 
Thanks for explaining about the letters in the wiring diagram for the switch. I had been puzzled what those letters represented. I can't remember how/why I hooked up the wires on my switch now. I am anxious to see just what letters are on the switch. So, how on earth did you guys figure out where the wires go if there weren't the correct letters? I should be home by 7 again, so hopefully I will get a shot at this tonight. I found the clamp difficult to put in, so I hope I will not have to pull my switch.
Kevin
 
ichthos said:
So, how on earth did you guys figure out where the wires go if there weren't the correct letters?
Click to expand...

Trial and error. As Scott says: the brown [with the blue trace] wire is connected to the white wire when the key is turned ON.
The brown [with blue trace] wire is connected to the red wire when the light knob is turned to the 1st position. The brown [with blue trace] wire is connected to the blue and the red wires when the light knob is turned to the 2nd position.

The key need not be on for the light knob to work. Simple, eh?
 
Kevin--Yes! Except that you can get continuity between the white and brown+blue wire and still have them swapped. Current flows equally well in either direction. Check the continuity in exactly the order that Scott has instructed you to.

Good luck,
Charlie
 
I pulled my switch to check it against Scott's picture, and my wires were hooked up the same as his picture. I pulled the switch and tested it with a continuity light. Here are my results:

1) I get continuity whether the key is turned on or not between the white and brown. I reversed the brown and white wires, and I still get continuity with the key off.
2) I get continuity between the brown and red when I turn the switch to the first position.
3) I get contiunuity between the bron and red and brown and blue when I turn the light to the second position.

Based on what all of you have said, is this a bad switch? I bought it brand new from AH Spares. I have to admit that most of the time when there is a problem, I am the problem. Is there anything I am overlooking or could have done wrong? Any thoughts? This one switch is standing between me and this car starting.

Kevin
 
I would recheck the switch.
Take the wires off.
See if you can get the key switch to function as in on and off with any two contacts. Say the contacts are numbered 1,2,3 &4 (doesn't matter which is which). Place one probe of the ohmeter on 1 and the other probe on 2. Then turn the key on and off. Does it make a difference? If so, those are the ignition switch contacts. If not, then place one probe on 2 and the other on 3. turn the key on and off. Does it make a difference? If so, that those are the ignition switch contacts. If not, then place one probe on 3 and the other one on 4. Turn the key on and off. Does it make a difference? If so then those are the ignition switch contacts.
If you fail to find a set of contacts that switch on and off with the key, then it looks like the switch is bad.
Scott in CA
 
I think I already did as you suggested and ran the contuity tests. Does it make a difference whether I use a continuity light or ohm meter? I am pretty sure my switch is bad.
Kevin
 
You might remove the lock barrel to make sure the switch is actually rotating in the on/off position before assuming its bad.
 
I think you found the problem, Terry! I removed the lock barrel, and for some reason there was a little bit of corrosion on the lock barrel. I cleaned it, put some vaseline on it, pushed in the key, and turned it. I could then hear a clicking sound for the first time. Sure enough, when I tested it for continuity it worked. Is it typical to have to keep the key pushed with some force as you turn the key?
Kevin
 
No, not at all.
 
Kevin, glad you found the problem--I guess after all that it had to come out anyway. Try some graphite lock lubricant the key slot. It might free it up.

Charlie
 
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