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Bugeye Hood Latch

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Paul McGuffin

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I am in the planning stage of converting my Bugeye hood to open forward. I found these hood latches at https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk Moss carried them back in the 1960’s BTW, this website has many more to chose from.
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I haven't seen those in a long time! That's a pretty cool find. If you didn't want to drill holes in the external sheet metal, there is also a set of hidden latches available from Speedwell.

What do you plan to use for hinges? Have you seen the kit I make?

https://gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/tilthinge/tilthingeWS.htm

Paul McGuffin said:
I am in the planning stage of converting my Bugeye hood to open forward. I found these hood latches at https://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk Moss carried them back in the 1960’s BTW, this website have many more to chose from.
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I’m trying to make up my mind between Speedwell $190 and the man on eBay $100. Speedwell’s really look nice, top photo, Ebay bottom photo.
SpeedweelBonnetHinge-1024x768.jpg
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Paul,

Both are copies of my kit. The one on eBay, though shown painted, comes as unpainted steel and supplied with grade 2, coarse thread (junk) hardware. The guy is even redistributing instructions coped from my web site. I'm not sure where you got your pricing, the bay one is $140 plus shipping. The Speedwell is $195 plus shipping.

Mine is 6061 aluminum, and is supplied with all grade 8 and grade 5 hardware. It's competitively priced. You can email me if you are interested.

Paul McGuffin said:
I’m trying to make up my mind between Speedwell $190 and the man on eBay $100. Speedwell’s really look nice, top photo, Ebay bottom photo.View attachment 43130View attachment 43131
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I sent you an email about the hinges. My hood screws are 1 7/8” not 1 5/8” Will the kit still work? This is not my car. The photo is off the Web.
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I haven't received an email yet, but to answer your question, I believe that info is a bit of misdirection. I have never encountered anyone that had fitment issues in regard to the spacing. You might want to check your hole spacing again, but my brackets allow c/c spacing up to 1-3/4" with the provided hardware. If yours is indeed truly 1-7/8", you would only need to file one side of each hole an additional 1/16". It's not likely you'll need to, however. Measuring same edge of each hole (i.e. left side to left side) will give you more accurate dimension.

Paul McGuffin said:
I sent you an email about the hinges. My hood screws are 1 7/8” not 1 5/8” Will the kit still work? This is not my car. The photo is off the Web.
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Paul,

I've got his kit and it is QUALITY stuff. Worth What Paid For. IMHO.
 
Here’s the first set of latches I bought from the Vintage Car Parts website. After they arrived, I realized the catch was too small, IMO, and they had a rubber grommet that kept them from fitting flush. They do look good though. Sent them back and got the others as a replacement.
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As a side note to all these post, years ago, 1964, I saw a Bugeye where the man had converted the hood to open forward. In those days, we just used the latching mechanism and did some cutting on the bottom of the hood. Anyway, this fellow had hooked up his head light, parking light cable with a military type electrical connector for an easy disconnect. The female section was mounted to a L-shape piece of aluminum. It was a very clean installation. Bugeye Guy or someone should come up with something like this to market.


1Pc-font-b-Military-b-font-14-Pin-Twist-Male-Female-font-b-Connector-b-font.jpg
 
Paul McGuffin said:
As a side note to all these post, years ago, 1964, I saw a Bugeye where the man had converted the hood to open forward. In those days, we just used the latching mechanism and did some cutting on the bottom of the hood. Anyway, this fellow had hooked up his head light, parking light cable with a military type electrical connector for an easy disconnect. The female section was mounted to a L-shape piece of aluminum. It was a very clean installation. Bugeye Guy or someone should come up with something like this to market.


View attachment 43134
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My first BE was set up with a front fold, somewhat similiar plug, and a single long rod holding the bonnet in the front. One could remove the bonnet in second's. Since it was a rat, bonnet removal occurred regularly.

Kurt.
 
My first Bugeye that was hinged tilt forward used the bonnet release latch rods as the pivot, and a multi quick-disconnect plug. Unplug the wire harness, twist the handle, and voila, total access!
 
Gerade...maybe you should come up with a nice six or eight prong military type plug to offer as part of your Bugeye front tilt pacakge. I’m thinking of using an eight prong, two extra wires for fog or driving lights. Don’t let Bugeye-Guy beat you to it.
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6 Way Trailer Disconnect from Tractor Supply or such and Bob's your uncle. I would like something a little better looking for my Bugsy II Build however.
 
Gerard said:
My first Bugeye that was hinged tilt forward used the bonnet release latch rods as the pivot, and a multi quick-disconnect plug. Unplug the wire harness, twist the handle, and voila, total access!
Click to expand...

That sound's exactly like mine, Gerard! Your first BE didn't end up in Nebraska did it? With a "Save water, shower with a friend" sticker on the passenger door!:yesnod:

Kurt.
 
Actually mine had a rod through those holes with a fast clip through it. The latch mechanism was gone.

Kurt.
 
Nice rig...I think Wally World had that connector. You picked a great color for you bugeye. Was silver ever a stock color?
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