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bugeye heater switch

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I

ichthos

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Hello,
My heater switch turns right and left and tested out Ok electrically. Isn't the cable supposed to pull out? Mine will not budge. Any suggestions?
Kevin
 
Its supose to pull out about 1.5 inch Pretty common for it to be froze be very careful as they are hard to come by. I'm sure someone here can help on the best way to free one up. needless to say I was not able to but then I choose not to put in a heater.Good luck Mybe the acetone and trans fluid weasel wiz?
Doc care to share your receipe?
 
BP Blaster over a longish period of time.
 
The knob and the short rod going to the cable moves, but the cable itself is frozen. By the way, how far does the cable normally stick out past the cable sleeve at the end with the knob pushed in? I suspect the cable has been broken at the end. I put in some PB blaster, Jack, and will continue to add it over and over every week and see what happens. Since this switch/cable is not available, I am hoping to get a new cable itself made and installed once I get the old one removed. Has anyone ever tried to just repair the cable itself before? Do you have a source for a new cable? I have rebuilt most of this car myself, but I am perfectly fine with someone repairing this switch/cable. Have any of you sent your switch cable in to be repaired somewhere? Do you have the name of the company you could give me?
Kevin
 
Acetone may eat any of the plastic bits. Blaster carefully applied over time may be the better thing in this case.
 
I have one that was cut off by the fellow who removed it from the car and on examination I believe you could unsolder the little ball that acuates the cable and get some piano wire of the right diameter to make up an new inner cable.
As to the froze up problem I have encountered that with old choke cables. I think generous use of penetrants plus flexing the cable where it is rusted should do the trick.
KA.
 
A standard old universal choke cable from the auto parts store works fine and can be modified easly.
 
Am I correct that the OEM knob has a stop built in so it only goes so far? I've always had, and replaced with, a standard choke type knob and cable but there's nothing to stop you from pulling the flapper valve from closed to full open and then keep right on going closing it again. Not a big deal, you learn where the "sweet spot" is for maximum airflow. Just wondering if the "real" knob stopped itself.
 
Original knob has a small post on the shaft that limits the travel of the flapper and limits the operation of the fan so it will only turn on when flap is open. At least mine does.
 
Be careful with heat, they are hard to come by. Can't see where heat would help more than lots of soaking and flexing. If its froze up that bad you may have to replace or remanufacture any way though.
KA.
 
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