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Bugeye front tilt latches

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Rut

Rut

Obi Wan
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I've been working on various designs for latches and it's tedious work getting everything lined up, but I think I'm on the home stretch. I wanted to build a latch system that was completely reversible with no modifications to the car and I'm pretty close to that goal. If anyone has done this before I would love some advice on adjustment!
Thanks, Rut
 

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Rut, Did you fabricate the latches and bonnet pins yourself? Talk to us about the "Gotchas" you've encountered?
 
Nice. Looks like a factory installation.
 
Jim,
The latch/pin combos are from an early 70s VW beetle and are pretty inexpensive...they have a built in release if the cable breaks. I tried several styles of mounting and settled on this one since no holes are drilled. I used an old set of 1275 motor mounts split in half, heated and reshaped and a 16 ga plate with a flanged nut spot welded to it. I made templates out of cardboard and then 22 ga sheet to test function and ease of manufacture. Once painted I think it will look pretty decent and blend in.
Rut
 
The toughest part is the alignment of the pin and receiver which is latched in the closed position as I type this. Being off by a fraction of an inch causes the pin to stick and it's a lot if trial and error. The engine bay is small, but it gets very small when I try to get in there to release the pin!
Rut
 
Rut said:
The engine bay is small, but it gets very small when I try to get in there to release the pin!
Click to expand...

Ummm I hate to point out the obvious but there is a very small child in your thumbnail photo - just sayin'
 
JP,
Shes a little bit older now and the only way I could get her inside is to tell her there's a princess or mermaid hiding there!
Rut
 
I discovered that part of my alignment issue is in the hinges I'm using. I bought a used set from another forum several years ago and while everything bolts up correctly it doesn't fit MY Bugeye. To solve this problem I ordered a set of hinges from Gerard @ Gerard's Garage yesterday and look forward to installing them. I think it will not only solve my alignment issue, but add a little bling to my car!
Rut
 
hahaha... when my daughter was little she could fit through a gap between two sections of an L-shaped desk and plug and unplug computer cords for me. She's the one that inherited my mechanical aptitude, and it's something she remembers fondly.


JPSmit said:
Ummm I hate to point out the obvious but there is a very small child in your thumbnail photo - just sayin'
Click to expand...
 
Nicely done! Looking forward to reports that you've fine tuned and have it working.

Rut said:
I've been working on various designs for latches and it's tedious work getting everything lined up, but I think I'm on the home stretch. I wanted to build a latch system that was completely reversible with no modifications to the car and I'm pretty close to that goal. If anyone has done this before I would love some advice on adjustment!
Thanks, Rut
Click to expand...
 
That's a really nice setup! I have thought about this type latch but have shelved project for now .
nice work ! We're do we send the check for the kit?
 
I like the idea of if cable breaks latch releases. Now to see what nice hinges do for you. My set from Gerard is downstairs waiting. If you need sooner...
 
The most important aspect on the forward tilting hinges is one that has the pivot point such that the bottom trailing edge of the bonnet does not grind on the bodywork. Not sure how this is too be achieved, but my makeshift ones for my first BE did not quite do the trick. I have always thought the if you could make the hinges fixed to the bodywork, that would be an ideal place to put the latches for the forward tilting bonnet.
Cheers,
Scott in CA
 
One thing I've found is that due to the flexibility of the bonnet the latches are very hard to align. I use the tape method (wide piece of painters tape over the receiver) to show me where the point of the 'pintle' makes contact. With an improper fitting hinge set that position will change each time you close the bonnet and it will jam and it's a pita to break loose. The rear bonnet to cowl seal must be modified as well into a flat piece about a foot long to get the proper fit and curve. I'll also use rubber wedges that the TR4a uses along the side of the bonnet to prevent contact between the cowl and bonnet. Although this project is fiddley it's fun experimenting with the different possibilities and I'll post the ones I have the most success with.
Rut
 
In an on going effort to screw up a good design for a better one I'm going to try using these latches. I can mount the latch pin to the vertical bonnet brace and the latch on a corresponding area of the foot well. I think a low mount will be better to keep the handle away from knees/legs. Thoughts?
Thanks, Rut
 

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I think those would work slick, Rut!! Similar to an XKE and the way I always thought about doing that. Can I ask what they are off of? They look a lot like Spridget boot lid latch's.

Kurt.
 
This seems like a lot of trouble when all you have to do is stay original and wear a helmet when you are working under the bonnet
 
59diamond said:
This seems like a lot of trouble when all you have to do is stay original and wear a helmet when you are working under the bonnet
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Too funny!
Rut
 
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