Bugeye disk brake conversion

[rossco]

Time to put some money in new brakes. What would I pay for disk parts and who is my best supplier for those parts?

 

[HealeyRick]

Here's the easiest way, just buy a complete kit: > Front Disc Brake Conversion Kit < The less expensive way is to find a later car being parted out and buy the parts indicated in the kit.

 

[Bayless]

Ouch! That is a little pricey. Makes me really happy my MK 4 came with disc brakes.

 

[drooartz]

Here's a writeup of the conversion I did on a previous Bugeye many years ago. Goes over what I used from the donor car and how I got it all together:

> DRAFT-Sprite Disc Brake Conversion <

 

[DrEntropy]

I'd forgotten how much work you'd put in on Tunebug.

..and how well, clean and thoroughly you work. Painting the B's engine bay with the unit in place when the time comes will be naught but time for you.

 

[drooartz]

I'd forgotten how much work you'd put in on Tunebug.

..and how well, clean and thoroughly you work. Painting the B's engine bay with the unit in place when the time comes will be naught but time for you.

And slow, Doc. You can't forget how slow I work.

I rebuilt everything but the body on that car. I now look at it as the practice lap for my current Bugeye.

 

[Bayless]

Wow, nice writeup Drew. Still glad I don't have to do it though.

 

[DrEntropy]

And slow, Doc. You can't forget how slow I work.

I rebuilt everything but the body on that car. I now look at it as the practice lap for my current Bugeye.

Not so much slow, as "deliberate." It's one of the things to separate a proper job from the hack work we've seen in so many cases in the shop. And why we didn't find anyone to work to the standard we expected. But you'd have fit right in (and likely enjoyed it)!

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Find yourself a basket case Spridget on its last legs as a "project car" Pull A-Arms - Likely cracked and will need replacement, Spindles, uprights, Rear Backing Plates and E Brake Rods and Balancer for e-Brake Rods, entire front suspension. I ended up replacing calipers with new, old ones looked very crusty, new hoses, New A Arms after going through multiple A Arms and finding most cracked from lack of proper lubrication. I had my MC resleeved in Bronze with 3/4" Bronze Pistons by Gerard. Not sure if he is still offering this service but have seen someone else resleeving in SS. New 3/4" MC's are going bad in as little as 24 months I have heard, so think about eliminating a common failure point. I replaced Brearing Front an Rear, 3/4" Wheel cylinders in the rear, new shoes and all brake hardware, So yes you can do less than $2,395. I think I saw that Winners Circle might be selling "rebuilt " bolt on Turnkey Front Disc Kits for Spridgets. Not hard to do with a donor car. or you can use what sometimes is the best tool in your toolbox a Credit Card. And it is worth it, I bought Bugsy with a brand new Drum Brake set completely installed, Front and Rear. Never had fluid installed just waiting to be used. I added Fluid, bred brakes, and adjusted shoes to the best of my ability. Yes I know drum breaks need to be bedded in and tweaked and tweaked till they are right, but the first time I stepped on the brakes I felt scared driving this car. I drove it that way for a week or two and kept tweaking the brake adjustments. Brakes still felt the sale after several week, too scary to drive. I tore the front end all apart and converted to front discs, again with a lot of new parts, did the same in the rear with Later Spridget Rear Brakes. Time for a Test Drive and Yes, Brakes I can count on.

I still want better brakes. Let's face it, if we get into a stopping contest with a Mini Van we will lose. I have purchased a Big Brake Kit with Wilwood 2 pot calipers, pads a least 2 x;s the size of a Spridget disc pad, 9 1/2" Rotors, and some upgraded pads, I know this setup will work better than the stock Spridget Discs. I also need to change out rear shoes as I accidently oiled up both sides when hub/axle seals started leaking both side. Brakes have come back and are working much better after I stopped the leak, I can't lock up the rears with e-Brake so some more work to do in the rear. New Shoes are on the workbench. , but have not found the time to replace the rear shoes yet. Planned Work Time over Christmas Holidays will be spent driving from Tampa to Cincinnati to visit kids, grandkids, and Relatives there, Dayton, and Indianapolis area. Also I get to look at a new Bugeye Project Car, while I am on the road, that a good friend was unable to finish before he passed. Again I will go through the same process to replace front Drums with Discs and upgrade the Rear Brake Backing plate to later hardware. .

 

[RickF]

I don't understand why your stock brakes don't work. I race an old Bugeye and run stock calipers, stock rotors, stock later model master (with two brake circuits), and stock rear brakes with the parking brake stuff removed (it won't fit with double bearing rear hubs). The only thing not stock is the front brake pads. I can stand the car on it's nose at 100 mph. Maybe you're not going fast enough.

When I get my owned for 53 years street Bugeye back on the road it will still have drums all around.

 

[Jim_Gruber]

Well I don't know either. Planning on replacing rear shoes tomorrow morning. I do know too much play and I need to adjust rear shoes tighter. at least 6-8 clicks on the e-brake handle now. I used to be able to lock the rears up and backed off the shoes a flat or two maybe three. And the Big Brake Kit, pads are twice the size of stock discs. Yes there is a coefficient of Tire Patch Friction vs. Caliper brake pad pressure. Too much and front brakes lock up or Rear Brakes lock up. A delicate balance to find. And I'm told changing the rear wheel cylinder size can correct an imbalance fairly easily.