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Bugeye bonnets

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M

mightymidget

Jedi Knight
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I have a few extra bonnets in the pursuit of finding a better one than the the one before. This week-end I purchased a fiberglass unit along with a typical used rusty unit.

In my spare time I was considering reworking metal patches and rebuilding the bonnets I don't need. They would not be show quailty stuff but good for dailey drivers.

Would I have a market for reselling these. and what would a fair price be for them? trying to decide on if it is worth it in my spare time to repair them
 
I bought one in need of back rear lower patch panels both sides and needed to rebuild radiator supports inside the grill as they were partially rusted through. I paid $300 about 8-9 years ago for that bonnet. I saw a new Fiberglass bonnet advertised for around $900 plus shipping. So your sweet spot is somewhere in between there I'm thinking. Shipping is the biggest PITA on a BE Bonnet.
 
Yes the lower valance @ $359 are a killer on most of them, the only way I could come out on them is around $900.00 primed. I probably will fix them as time allows and hang them from the ceiling until I need one.

I know they are only so many left, and what may seem to be in terrible condition right now could be a sight for sore eyes in years to come. I just hate to see old metal waste away
 
Fortunately my lower valance was still in pretty good shape although cut at the bottom so it could be forward hinged. Inside structural area behind grille seems to be a major rust area. I patched and strengthened with some pop riveted aluminum stock and straightened out what was a crunch. Overall not bad considering it had been sand blasted, primered and sat out under a car port on end for 10-12 year. I patched up shotgun shell holes and pretty much cleaned it up. Of course it could be better if I ever learn to shrink metal I could remove that dinner plate sized dimple in the middle of the bonnet. Got it out pretty good but from certain angles...
 
shrinking metal is tuff. I have done it with a torch bucket of water and a heavey towel. Also I have tried a pick which leave nasty body work. I have been thinking of buying a shrinking hammer from eastwood just to playwith
 
Never tried the twist hammer. I've used a shrinking disc and hammer to "push" the metal.
 
Never tried one but it looks a little gimmicy. Best luck I have had is just the old acetylene torch and a regular hammer with backup. Just takes a lot of patience any way you go. Had to fill 40 or so holes in the Prefect firewall then lots of shrinking to get it flat again.
 

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40 holes in a Prefect? was it Target practice?
 
Did you use a MIG when filling those holes? I've found that it is very difficult to work the HAZ once something has been MIG welded.
 
JP, I don't even have a guess as to the reason for all those holes. I probably put a few of them over several years of "customizing or adapting." I don't have a MIG welder so just used the acetylene for both the patching and shrinking. Time consuming since I'm not a qualified welder but still gratifying. Here it is finished in BRG Deltron.
 

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Impressive :bow: Not wanting to hijack the thread too much, but, last year Mark (Abarth 69) & I took a welding course which just taught us enough to be dangerous (well me at least - really) Anyway, once I get the time to start working on Luigi the Multipla, part of wonders if I would be better with oxy-acetylene than MIG. I know MIG is easier from a time/just do it point of view, but, you end up with something much harder than with a torch. I was also able to get a VERY small flame with the torch - which was slow but worked. Any thoughts?
 
JPSmit said:
Impressive :bow: Not wanting to hijack the thread too much, but, last year Mark (Abarth 69) & I took a welding course which just taught us enough to be dangerous (well me at least - really) Anyway, once I get the time to start working on Luigi the Multipla, part of wonders if I would be better with oxy-acetylene than MIG. I know MIG is easier from a time/just do it point of view, but, you end up with something much harder than with a torch. I was also able to get a VERY small flame with the torch - which was slow but worked. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

The stigma: ever tool has it purpose. the same here
The migs claim to fame is that low heat is generated, therefore less metal distorition.

With a torch you can braze
 
Correct, A MIG is quick and thus you do not have a large HAZ, but the weld itself is very hard to work. The oxyacetylene method is slower, and can cause more warping, but if you now how to normalize and push the metal by hammering as you patch the result can be much better. That firewall is a good example.
 
As I said earlier, I am far from an expert. I have a friend though who restored an XK140 for another friend that was even too far gone for the crusher. He is good enough that his main job is repairing sheet metal on million dollar vintage racers. Anyway, on this 140, he was offered a nice MIG unit and used it a bit. For 90% of the body work, he still stayed with the ole torch instead. Said it was just easier and quicker than having to deal with that MIG seam.
 
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