Bugeye bodywork

[ichthos]

I saw the setup of using the engine stands to make your own rotisserie, but was too cheap a the time to buy those and the metal that goes between them. Because of that and other issues what I did was just leave the rear wheels on during the whole process. The car was so light I could just pick it up and move it wherever I wanted. I simply used two tall saw horses I made and lifted it up onto two tall saw horses I made to raise it up in the air when I needed to work underneath. This allowed me plenty of room to blast the bottom and work on the floor pan (I only had to replace the driver side).

I also would like to see Fred's rotisserie. I am curious - how is the Bugeye attached at either end?

Kevin

 

[Nelson]

I made the roll over frame from info on Gerard's web site. It worked great for me. I added dollies to it so I could roll it around. Here is the info I used:

https://www.gerardsgarage.com/Garage/Tech/rolloverframe/rolloverWS.htm

There are photos of my set up on my Webshots site.

 

[apbos]

I've been working the B/E for last 2 weeks (floors, sills and boot floor). I built a wooden rotisserie following the plans on Gerard's site. However I have yet to use it. The car is sitting on two furniture dollies and I've just been tipping it up against the wall on to 2 large old tires. I can be done by one person, then braced if needed. These cars are really strong on the rear fender sides, and I've seen no signs of denting. I'll get some pics later.

Paul


Ok to spam me now..........

 

[JPSmit]

John-Peter,
do you have any pics or diagrams of your rotisserie?
thanks
Fred

I do - pm me your email asap and i'll send them. Asap because we're leaving on a cruise tomorrow and will be away from the interweb.

 

[BillW103]

Fred,

All striped down the car can be picked up by two guys. With four guys it turns over quite easy. I finished the complete under side and the lower portion of the body then turned it back over. I then assembled the complete car on the cart jacked it up and rolled the cart away. If you make a cart get locking casters I didn’t and chased the car all over the shop and drive way. I made the cart out of the wood scrap pile and it could have been a little stronger it started to sage with the completed car on it. The car is so much easer to work on up hhigher.

I never liked the idea of rolling it on its side.

https://i.imgur.com/QUBea.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/XMEpM.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/KYAnM.jpg

 

[TulsaFred]

Looks awesome Bill!

thanks for the plans J-P and Jim!

Fred

 

[mightymidget]

I have a junker I am needing to redo floors, can you roll the car on its side on top of a mattress and not damage the side of car while you work on the bottom, Yes I have a ansewer for fire risk.

 

[JPSmit]

I suspect you can roll it easily (just don'e hold me responsible) seriously, the metal is pretty thick and the curves will hold the shape.

In terms of rotisseries, saw this pic on another website - know a hardtop beemer is much heavier, I sometimes think we overthink this stuff, this looks a quick and dirty solution especially if you can weld.

 

[Rut]

JP,
I was thinking of something similar to that, but picked up an extra 1k pound HF engine stand for $35. The foot print on the stands has me concerned, but they are somewhat mobile. I really like the simplicity of the wooden rig though...4 tires and a bottom brace?
Rut

 

[JPSmit]

you could perhaps add a couple 2x4's perpendicular to the existing footprints - if they function like sponsons, (just above the floor surface) you could still move the car but if it tipped, the wood would keep it going over. Engine stands will work just fine, just make sure the two stands are attached if you want to move the car - don't ask me how I know. Again though I suspect a 2x4 would suffice.

and yes, 4 tires will work just fine.

get on with it man!

 

[mightymidget]

yes tires. better yet tire tubes. big tubes