Bug-Eye rebuild & upgrades - advice requested

[twas_brillig]

We have two Bug-Eye Sprites, both 1960(?)models, and are buying a 72 Midget parts car. The yellow BE has been driven off and on since we bought it in 1971; the other (purchased at the same time) never ran and is now a restored, silver painted body tub. I would appreciate advice on upgrades from stock that would stay mostly true to the original.

Both are getting Datsun 210 transmissions, rebuilt and installed using the Rivergate kit plus clutch slave cylinder and speedometer driver; the yellow BE will get a re-sleeved master cylinder.

Reading through Terry Horler’s book regards changes in the Spridget design over the years, I’ve come up with the following potential upgrades and swaps for the silver body tub:

Upgrades/options (not from the parts car), as available:
- a dust excluder for the rear springs (to keep crud out of the quarter elliptic mounting area)
- wider wheels and tyres (size to be determined)
- panhard rod
- front sway bar (possibly from the parts car)
- pertronix (or equivalent) ignition

From the parts car:
- replace backing plates and wheel cylinders for rear brakes
- front disc brake conversion; reseleeve master cylinder to match the the Rivergate slave & the BMC stock diameter for the updated brakes. Probably retain original Bug-Eye front springs (unclear at this point if this is an issue)
- towing eyes might be fitted on the parts car; consider transferring
- investigate the feasibility of transferring the collapsible steering column system into the Bug-Eye; among other things, I’m not sure if the parts car has the Triumph rack (instituted Feb.72) or the original Morris Minor type
- 1275 cc engine; possibly the drive shaft; 3.9:1 differential ‘pumpkin’; axles (if they are the stronger ones)
- we have another 1275 cc engine, partially disassembled; need to check the it for date of production and condition, vs. the emission controls etc. on the parts car - comments please on the later engine
- probably convert to negative ground and adopt the alternator from the parts car; unsure whether to try to stick with a mechanical fuel pump or adopt the electrical fuel pump system from the parts car; unsure of the appearance of the electric rev-counter in the parts car vs. the existing mechanical drive (also unsure if we’ve still got the original dynamo and gear set)
- Fuel supply: the parts car has the stock SUs; I’ve also got a 45 mm Weber DCOE and manifold, plus an associate has built an electronic fuel injection system for his BMW 2002 and is quite enthusiastic about that approach.
- ?? what else ??

Thanks,

Doug

 

[spritenut]

Options not from parts car, Personally I would stick with a points ignition, But that's me since I gave up after 4 electronic ignitions, 3 of them Pertronix, one other all failed in a short time.
Panhard rod is a waste unless you plan of racing or autocrossing.
Sway bar and wide tires for sure.

From the parts car....Rear back plates, front discs, 1275 alternator, electric fuel pump.
Either the SUs or Weber, for sure.
As for the steering column, that will be a major modification, it does not bolt in nor is it even close to matching the dash. Look at the parts car metal where the column comes through, you will see what I mean.
3.90 diff and a 5 speed seems like a waste to me too. I tried it and did not like it, keep the 4.22 and it's still snappy off the line and 5th gear makes up the high way speed.
But if you want 50 mpg, go for it but you will loose that first place spot leaving the traffic lights :wink:
Towing eyes? They are all curb rashed for a good reason, they are too low and do you really want to put a hook under a Bugeye bonnet and yank the car this way?

 

[Jim_Gruber]

With collapsible column comes key lock fitted into the steering column. I've got a '68 column and wheel in my gagage that is "naked" if you want to see pics.