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Bug eye front disc brake conversion.
- Thread starter ichthos
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Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Do one side at a time so you’ve got something to reference. I combined mine with a major suspension kit upgrade, new wishbones, wheel bearings, sway bar, new calipers I figure brakes one thing not to scrimp on, SS brake lines. There is a video tgat shows rebuilding the front end, if you are upgrading to disc redo suspension and you need to take all of apart to replace spindles. Oh and rebuilt shocks from Peter Caldwell. Toughest part will be getting bushings reamed before it all goes back y to ogethef
Thanks for the feedback and tips. I totally rebuilt my bugeye doing most of what you did. I kept everything stock as possible. I had not driven a bugeye before my restoration and have made just a few minor changes to make it more practical to drive. My wife loves to drive it and just doesn’t feel safe with the shoe brakes.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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Kevin, I agree. Bugsy when I got him had totally new brakes including new 7/8” Master installed, new drum brake hardware F and R. I added brake fluid, system was new and dry. Bled brakes, adjusted brakes to the best of my ability and tried driving him for a month. Granted new shoes need to bed in but in 2 month I never felt comfortable in Bugsy’s stopping power. That switch to front discs with 3/4” Master and later rear brakes with the upgraded backing plates and 3/4” large rear wheel cylinders made a tremendous difference in stopping power.
A buddy had discs up front but kept the 7/8” Master and stock rear drum set up. First time I drove his car I was scared to death, what’s wrong with the brakes am I going to stop. brake pressure on pedal extremely hard with no modulation possible. He’s continued to upgrade and not has upgraded MC and gone to later rear backing plates w later rear brake set up. Easy to stop, brakes balanced, nice pedal pressure. It stops!
when you pull brakes from a donor you need to move the entire brake system not just parts and pieces. I did not move over to he dual master as I did not want to butcher the car under hood but I did utilize the same size MC at 3/4” that the later Spridgets were designed with.
A buddy had discs up front but kept the 7/8” Master and stock rear drum set up. First time I drove his car I was scared to death, what’s wrong with the brakes am I going to stop. brake pressure on pedal extremely hard with no modulation possible. He’s continued to upgrade and not has upgraded MC and gone to later rear backing plates w later rear brake set up. Easy to stop, brakes balanced, nice pedal pressure. It stops!
when you pull brakes from a donor you need to move the entire brake system not just parts and pieces. I did not move over to he dual master as I did not want to butcher the car under hood but I did utilize the same size MC at 3/4” that the later Spridgets were designed with.
Jim_Gruber
Yoda
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A donor car someone is trying to get hauled away. You can use old rods but will need to cut, thread cut ends and use a coupler nut.