BT7 water temperature sensor removal

[noddy]

Hi, I am removing the dash on my BT7 but I am having difficulty removing temperature sensor from the engine block. I managed to remove the nut but the sensor won't budge. I have put penetrating oil on it but still didn't move. Don't want to damage capillary tube. Any suggestions, please.

 

[red57]

You can remove the thermostat and then push/wiggle the bulb out from the inside to avoid pulling too hard on the tube. You still have to be gentle because the bulb is somewhat fragile too.
Dave

 

[tahoe healey]

Years ago it was suggested to remove the nut (that can be a pain in itself) and put some form of penetrating oil (I use knocker loose). Then, start the engine and the heat should loosen with a little wiggling with a vice grip. The big thing is persistence and patience.

 

[Keoke]

NODDY:

Soak it in KROIL

 

[pkmh]

As additional info maybe, sketch shown is to my BJ8 sensor which I assume is the same on yours. Not totally accurate in terms of dimensions indicated at overall nut and coil (ie: don't recall the securing nut only measuring 3/16" thick), but the appearance of the flared portion of the probe and probe's base is a pretty good sketch representation. Hopefully, someone can post a photo of one. I am hopeful this area is what is giving you most difficulty in removing only. The advice given above about penetrating oil, wiggling, engine warming, should hopefully do it for you. And yes, patience.

 

[noddy]

excellent idea.

 

[noddy]

many thanks being a Brit I am not sure what KROIL is but I have soaked it, on and off, in penetrating oil for 3 days and still the little so and so won't budge.Keoke

 

[noddy]

many thanks

 

[dklawson]

many thanks being a Brit I am not sure what KROIL is but I have soaked it, on and off, in penetrating oil for 3 days and still the little so and so won't budge.Keoke

Kroil is a high-quality penetrating oil.

Since you have applied penetrating oil, use a flare nut wrench on the fitting, NOT a regular open end wrench. With the flare nut wrench on the fitting, use a small hammer to tap the other end of the wrench. The mechanical shocks can help wick the oil into the threads. Though this sounds contrary to what you want to do... tap on the wrench as if you were trying to tighten the fitting, then reverse the direction of your hammer taps to loosen it. Patience and delicate work will eventually get it out.

 

[pkmh]

how does Kroil compare to the use of "PB Blaster?"

 

[Rob Glasgow]

They both smell bad. I think Kroil may work a little better because it cost more:fat:

 

[pkmh]

They both smell bad. I think Kroil may work a little better because it cost more:fat:

And if it's organic, more so! (I've heard that some, if not most or all of these products have fish oils in them, so organic is the healthier choice?)

 

[John Turney]

A mixture of acetone and automatic transmission fluid (ATF) works better. I was trying PB Blaster on some screws and when it didn’t work I tried the acetone/ATF mix and they cam out.

 

[Bob_Spidell]

how does Kroil compare to the use of "PB Blaster?"

I've seen Kroil do some amazing feats. Even my late father, who was pretty skeptical, thought it worked very well (I'm always trying new adhesives, solvents, oils, etc. due to an interest in chemistry and, well, just because). Kroil seems to bubble a little when it comes in contact with rust. There is an even more expensive penetrant, called 'Mouse Milk,' that's popular with aircraft mechanics ( https://www.aircraftspruce.com/cata...MIteKO67HH3AIVBoVpCh2lZQM_EAQYASABEgIs5_D_BwE ). Never tried PB Blaster, but I know some swear by it.

More on topic, I think carefully heating the area around the sender bulb with a propane torch, while applying liberal amounts of penetrant, might help (but you'll lose your paint).