• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

BT7 stator tube

  • Thread starter Deleted member 21878
  • Start date

Share this page

D

Deleted member 21878

Guest
Guest
Offline
Trying to fish the wires down the stator tube. What is the trick? I tried to get a rigid no8 wire down the tube to fish the others thru. But I hit something that stopped it.
 
If you have an adjustable steering column then the stator tube is a tube within a tube so you are hitting the joint , keep trying or get an electrcians fish tape
 
Have you made your wires slightly different lengths? You can remove the bullet connectors and reinstall (crimp or solder) them after the wires are through the tube.
Lin
 
Small stator tube is out. I am just trying to get a stiff wire thru the long tube. It hits something close to the end or lower part of the tube. Do I need to remove the olive to run this down? Or should I run a fish wire up the tube?
 
Did you get the tube down through the hole in the front of the steering box? If not, it's likely the tube is misaligned with the hole in the back side of the steering box, and your wire is butting up against the hole. Make sure the tube protrudes from the hole in the front of the steering box. The trafficator wiring should be staggered, so that you can wrap thin wire tightly around the terminals and feed the wire then pull the wiring through.
 
Is the end of what you're pushing down the column rounded? If you're using a stiff wire, for example, then double back the end about 1"-2" but don't flatten the "eye" completely flat, leave it rounded.

A rounded end is more likely to rise up and pass over an obstruction, rather than to butt up against it.

Twirling the wire is another tactic, using LIGHT pressure to continue pushing.

I spent more than three (>3) decades running wires (from 20-22 ga to 500MCM) so to paraphrase a popular insurance commercial: I know a thing or two, because I've done a thing or two!
 
I pushed a length of bailing wire (with a female bullet connector attached) up the tube and used it to pull the stator wires down.
Removed bullets 2 - 4 from stator wire and put heat-shrink tubing around the loose wires. Easy to pull through the tube:

StatorWirePuller.jpg
 
i will try pushing something up the tube later today. just tough with the grill in and i would hate to take that sucker out again.... my lower stator tube does protrude about 3/4" below the steering box. i will try make a little loop on the end of my fence wire.
 
well i got it. i had to run my wire up from the bottom and hook to my harness. then i braided the wires and covered in shrink wrap. heated up the wrap and pulled them thru. my hub does not quite pull up tight to my steering wheel. appears the boss is not deep enough to let it come all the way in. it may be they want to make sure the blinker switch does not hit the screws? anyway here it is.fullsizeoutput_17a.jpg

and the gap i mentionedIMG_0289.jpg

Thanks for the suggestions. with this done i was able to connect the battery and see what works.. (new wiring harness) everything worked fine except my tag light and my driving lights. i will chase that down later. should not be too complicated. Now on to getting the windshield in.
 
Is that, by any chance, a Lempert steering wheel with a Moto Lita hub? Michael Lempert told me he had to machine Moto Lita hubs to fit his wheels.
 
Bob_Spidell said:
Is that, by any chance, a Lempert steering wheel with a Moto Lita hub? Michael Lempert told me he had to machine Moto Lita hubs to fit his wheels.
Click to expand...

That's interesting - I have a Moto Lita hub from 1999 and my Lempert wheels have fit perfectly. Maybe MotoLita changed the design slightly.

Picture 2 above looks like the 3 grub screws in the hub need to be backed out enough to push the trafficator backing plate in fully, then loosely tightened to retain it.

GrubScrew.jpg
 
I had the screws out totally trying to push the unit in. The wheel came from AH Spares and the boss came from Moss.

Good story. I ordered the steering wheel Tuesday evening from AH thinking I would get it after Christmas. But it showed up Friday. 3 days from England.. impressive. And the freight was not much more than from a us supplier.

I am going to measure the original boss and see if they are the same depth. It is definitely in the boss that is holding it out.
 
my backing plate is all the way up against the lip inside the boss. So i either have to make the lip deeper, build the steering wheel out, or leave as is.
 
Why don't you talk to AH Spares ? Ah just noticed that the hub came from Moss and the wheel from AH spares.

You can not be the first to come up with the problem, unless it is a one off and the steering wheel is incorrect.

In my opinion the best possible solution to your problem - you could make up an aluminium spacer complete with fixing holes that is thicker than the one you have at the moment that bolts the wheel to the hub, done properly it could be a neat answer.

Now considering that you have parts from two different suppliers then probably neither of them would help, an alternative to my first suggestion would be to make a spacer that fits under the wheel, against the hub i.e. kind of building the hub out, the general finish on the flat surfaces would not matter too much as long as the edge was polished up, the bolts would need to be longer possibly.

:cheers:

Bob
 
i did think about building out the wheel either by a spacer behind the wheel or by a thicker front one. also measured the original wheel to the flat part the backer plates sits against. it is about an 1/8 to 3/16 deeper. Not really an AH spares issue. the problem is in the boss. Moss says it works with this wheel and they actually the cover plate with the kit. i will check with them to see if they have any suggestions.
 
Are you sure the tube of the back of the trafficator isn't bottoming in t slot in the stator tube? That happened to me a I had to extend the stator tube more out the front of the steering box.
 
i thought the small tube went inside the lower tube? but i also measured the distance to the lip the backing plate will hit. i am pretty sure it is in all the way... as far as it will go anyway.
 
DD - Following John T's thought...

For grins, why don't you loosen the olive nut on the front of the steering box and pull the stator tube about 1/4" toward the front of the car and see if your trafficator then seats properly.

The steering wheel and its outer ring have nothing to do with this issue - it's all about the relationship between the trafficator and wheel hub. From your pic, the wheel clearly bolts up to the hub properly.

What I wonder is how could Moss be selling a hub that doesn't fit a standard trafficator - just don't see that happening.
 
Back
Top