• Hi Guest! Being a Paying Supporter is NOT a requirement to participate at BCF. However, subscribing will help ensure we can continue to serve the LBC community for years to come. If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource...Please consider supporting us by **Upgrading**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this banner)
Tips
Tips

BT7 Right Front Brake Drag

spartan0199

Member
Offline
f4l5z9.jpg


23rs6d0.jpg

inv9fo.jpg

2vd188x.jpg


Hi All,
Last fall I noticed a grinding noise from the right front under braking, fast forward to now and I'm looking into the issue. With the front wheels off the ground the left front was free spinning the right front was dragging. Pictures show the condition of the brake pads at each side and the right front rotor. I started some disassembly but could not get the nut off that holds the caliper on with the small wrench I had.

So in the meantime I figure I would order parts, currently thinking new pads rotors and brake lines. Any other suggestions from the experts? Also not sure exactly how the rotors come off but I haven't gotten that far into it yet. I'm not a mechanic but I do change rotors and pads on my other cars. Seems more straight forward compared to this one :p

Any suggestions or advice is much appreciated, thanks!

PS: Also had right front dragging on my beater 2003 Subaru Legacy last fall if you can believe it. On the Healey I could not at all feel that the brake was dragging while driving but on the Subaru it was very obvious and the car would at times really fight itself to keep going! The Subaru was fixed by replacing the flexible brake line.
 

Patrick67BJ8

Darth Vader
Silver
Country flag
Offline
f4l5z9.jpg


23rs6d0.jpg

inv9fo.jpg

2vd188x.jpg


Hi All,
Last fall I noticed a grinding noise from the right front under braking, fast forward to now and I'm looking into the issue. With the front wheels off the ground the left front was free spinning the right front was dragging. Pictures show the condition of the brake pads at each side and the right front rotor. I started some disassembly but could not get the nut off that holds the caliper on with the small wrench I had.

So in the meantime I figure I would order parts, currently thinking new pads rotors and brake lines. Any other suggestions from the experts? Also not sure exactly how the rotors come off but I haven't gotten that far into it yet. I'm not a mechanic but I do change rotors and pads on my other cars. Seems more straight forward compared to this one :p

Any suggestions or advice is much appreciated, thanks!

PS: Also had right front dragging on my beater 2003 Subaru Legacy last fall if you can believe it. On the Healey I could not at all feel that the brake was dragging while driving but on the Subaru it was very obvious and the car would at times really fight itself to keep going! The Subaru was fixed by replacing the flexible brake line.
You may need to replace the flex line and if you do replace all 3 of them. As far as turning the rotor I saw Zander episode I'm Wheelers Dealers where it was done on the car. I don't think there's any specs for the minimum thickness of the rotor.
 
Country flag
Online
To get the rotors off, you have to unbolt the calipers--two big bolts each--and remove the big nut on the end of the axle spindle (after you figure out a way to get the dust cover out). The rotors will slide off with at least the outer bearing inside. This will be the time to inspect the bearings and replace if necessary, or at least repack and check the end float (many discussions on this here and on the rest of the interwebs). If you haven't gone through your brakes in a long time it would be a good idea to pull the pistons and replace the seals (which could be a cause of the brake dragging) and, unless they're perfect, replace the pistons with stainless steel ones, and make sure the bores have no rust or pitting. You don't need to split the calipers unless they're leaking.

Frankly, that rotor looks really bad, and should be replaced (you might be able to get it turned). Also, I've never seen the studs mounted that way, I think they are usually installed so that the threads are on the outside of the rotor hat (at least, that's how my BJ8 came). Your pads are shot, and it looks in the bottom photo that one is worn down to the metal backing (which is likely the cause of the grinding noise). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it looks like your brakes got a 'spray can rebuild'--notice the rubber boots have been painted gold--and you really need these brakes thoroughly gone through. That wheel's brakes are not roadworthy.
 

CaptRandy

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Pads look to be wearing uneven in lower photo. Piston not retracting correctly. I would get a new caliper to replace it. Find a shop that is able to cut the rotor correctly. Anymore mechanic shops are few and far between so get some recommendations for your area
 
Country flag
Online
Pads look to be wearing uneven in lower photo. Piston not retracting correctly. I would get a new caliper to replace it. Find a shop that is able to cut the rotor correctly. Anymore mechanic shops are few and far between so get some recommendations for your area

If you look at the top photo closely, you'll see a significant ridge in the rotor, and it appears to be on the side where the completely worn pad is. It appears to be a half-inch rotor, as opposed to the earlier 3/8"--I think--rotors, but I'm not sure that rotor is turnable. Moss, and others, put brake parts on sale fairly regularly; I bought new rotors on sale probably 10 years ago, figuring I'd need them eventually. Parts don't get cheaper over time and can't hurt sale value if it ever comes to that (also bought a new clutch I'll be installing in the next year). As a side, I have my BJ8 up on jackstands for inspection before my annual road trip, and the rotors are mirror-smooth. I have no idea why, probably a lucky combination of pad (Ferrodo) and rotor brand/grade, but every other car I've had with disks wore grooves into the rotors after just a few thousand miles. I probably--I really should keep track of this--have well over 60K miles on them.
 

red57

Jedi Warrior
Country flag
Offline
Unless you know the history of the car - how many miles/years since the last major brake rebuild, I would suggest you don't take any shortcuts. Replace/rebuild everything. Hoses look like they have been in service for a long time - replace all three as has been said. Pads are worn uneven suggesting piston hang-up. If that's the case, it could be due to grit/rust in the bores. If the pistons show pitting, I agree with Bob, buy stainless steel pistons - either way, rebuild or replace the calipers. Rotors are relatively cheap, I would replace - BTW, general rule of thumb I've been taught is 10% when turning rotors - these look like early ones to me so would have started at .375 so shouldn't be turned below about .340 (if later .500 discs then the lower limit will be around .450).
But don't stop there, rebuild/replace master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders. And check rear shoes & drums condition - if any doubt, replace. I believe the best solution for brakes is to make them completely new if you don't know how long it's been since they were done. Your peace of mind will thank you.
Just my .02
Dave
 
Country flag
Online
This (what I was trying to say while 'beating around the bush'). Since there are no modern safety, cover-your-butt devices--air bags, crumple zones, automatic braking, lane change warning, etc.--in a Healey there is absolutely no margin for equipment or operator failure. If your car won't start, you don't get to have a Sunday drive on the backroads, if your brakes fail you could be severely injured or die (goes for suspension and tires as well).
 
OP
spartan0199

spartan0199

Member
Offline
Thank you all for your suggestions. The amount of work based on the suggestions is a little daunting but I will go step by step and try to take it apart. The history of the car as I know it. It was purchased in 1975 by father and uncle and needed a lot of work. It was road worthy again in 1980 in the current state. I know the exact repair history since 1993 and none of these part have been touched during that time, so who knows how old these components are. The car has not been driven a lot since 1993 but I do get it going every year and it drives :smile:

Yes the noise was from the outside brake pad wearing all the way down to the backing plate and grooving the rotor pretty bad. Both rotors don't look that great to me so I think my plan is to replace them with new. I'll try to get it apart before I buy any parts to see what it looks like.
 
Country flag
Online
... I would not be inhibited by this - disc brakes are simple.

True, but replacing the rotor requires re-packing--possibly replacing--the bearings and checking/adjusting the end float, which is a little daunting (as evidenced by all the commentary here). However, there is no alternative to having properly functioning brakes.
 
OP
spartan0199

spartan0199

Member
Offline
Hi All
Fast forward, I got the front brakes back together, including the flexible brake lines replaced. Had my nephew help me bleed the brakes, the two man "open/close bleeder" method. Seemed like I was getting good fluid out of the bleeders. When I test drove it the pedal is very soft with a lot of free play, doesn't feel right. I drove slow around the neighborhood just to check. If I slam the brakes on full force from that slow speed I can get the RH front wheel to lock up but not the LH front. Both rotors were hot after the short test run, seems like things are working mechanically. Another round of bleeding in order? Any other suggestions?

Also didn't do anything with the rear brakes right now, just wanted to get it back going before winter!
 

TimK

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
This exact thing happened to me. I replaced the Pistons in the calipers and the brake hoses and the pads. You should do all three. I did not replace the rotors which look like yours and they still brake fine. It is most likely the Pistons since you did the brake hoses.
 

healeyblue

Jedi Warrior
Gold
Country flag
Offline
Definitely need to do them all. The original brake system is a single circuit. Opening lines any where in the circuit allows air into the whole system and must be bled out entirely, starting in the rear. For sure do as John says and replace that rear brake hose while there is already air in the lines.
Jim
 

TimK

Jedi Knight
Silver
Country flag
Offline
After replacing all three brake hoses, the front disc Pistons and seals, and adjusting the rear brakes, I have a perfectly performing brake system. My big mistake was putting off the replacement of the rear brake hose. Replacing the rear hose requires removing the front connection with the steel line, removing the nut that holds the line in place, then removing the rear connection with the junction to the rear brake lines.
 
Similar threads
Thread starter Title Forum Replies Date
Lin Right Front Fender Removal - 60 BT7 Austin Healey 2
B For Sale Brand New Black Tonneau Cover for BN4 and BT7 - for Right Hand Drive Car Austin Healey Classifieds 0
F My 1960 BT7 History Search Austin Healey 1
Healey Nut BT7 Parts Identification Austin Healey 3
MadRiver BT7 Wiring Diagram Austin Healey 4
Healey Nut BT7 Panhard Rod Austin Healey 28
Healey Nut BT7 Rear Suspension Austin Healey 15
J Attaching BT7 Dash Facia Panel Austin Healey 2
D Very Nice 80% restored BT7 Austin Healey Classifieds 4
S Grill cowl top piece for AH 3000, BT7, $65 Austin Healey Classifieds 0
R 3-point seat belts on late production BT7 MKII Austin Healey 7
T BT7 throttle relay levers short and long Austin Healey 1
C 1960 BT7 Thoughts Austin Healey 14
CLB62 1962 BT7 Tri-Carb for sale on BaT Austin Healey 2
Lin Tach drive housing for BT7 Austin Healey 4
S For Sale Austin Healey 3000 and 3000 MK II Factory Parts Manual - BN7 & BT7 on CD/ROM Austin Healey Classifieds 0
T BT7 Hardtop Restoration Austin Healey 6
dougie BT7 Video Austin Healey 8
F Exhaust Fumes in the Cockpit - BT7 Austin Healey 10
F After 30 years of ownership I decided to clean my 1961 Healey 3000 BT7 Austin Healey 0
Michael Oritt Lube points on BN/BT7 front end Austin Healey 4
B BT7 Door Seal Installation Austin Healey 13
S For Sale RARE FIND BN2-BT7 and? Trans Parts for Sale Austin Healey Classifieds 2
AUSMHLY 1962 3000 Mk II BT7 speedometer Austin Healey 2
B BT7 Grille surround Austin Healey 9
F Dynamo not charging [BT7] - replace brushes or buy new? Austin Healey 24
M engine stutter of rebuild BT7 engine [tri-carb] above 2500 rpm Austin Healey 27
R BT7 Carb floats Austin Healey 1
F Three worn hubs and wire wheel centers - What to do next? 1960 BT7 Austin Healey 6
Healey Nut BJ8 and BT7 parts for sale Austin Healey Classifieds 23
CLB62 1962 Austin Healey BT7 Mk II Austin Healey 15
F Heater pipe and air duct routing BT7 Austin Healey 3
BoyRacer Tips on gluing new fabric to dash on my BT7 Austin Healey 10
F Help need reinstating my heater - BT7 Austin Healey 7
AH67 Air Cleaners for Mark I BT7 Austin Healey 4
F Water pump replacement on my BT7 advice needed please Austin Healey 18
N Help to identify parts - BT7 Austin Healey 7
jnew >>> Austin-Healey Parts Lists for BN4-BN6, BN7-BT7, & BJ7-BJ8 Available Online Austin Healey 14
N Searching previous owners - BT7 Tricarb -62 sold in LA Austin Healey 5
Drone Dog BT7 tach question Austin Healey 8
J For Sale 1 owner 1959 Austin healey 3000 BT7 Austin Healey Classifieds 0
AH67 Polishing Foggy side curtains on BT7 Austin Healey 13
Drone Dog 62 BT7 squeak Austin Healey 2
Drone Dog BT7 top/paint protection Austin Healey 5
J BT7 [Tri-Carb] Restoration Upgrades Austin Healey 2
Drone Dog BT7 Oil Leak at Distributor Austin Healey 5
Drone Dog BT7 Timing Advance Austin Healey 17
R BT7 turn signals Austin Healey 5
Drone Dog BT7 oil pressure relief valve Austin Healey 19
Drone Dog BT7 rear wheel leaking Austin Healey 25

Similar threads

Top