Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
OP
Deleted member 21878
Guest
Guest
Offline
thanks. i will take some measurements tomorrow and figure it out. probably got what i need in the plumbing draw.
-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Share this page
OP
Deleted member 21878
Guest
Guest
Offline
Not to start a controversy but any thoughts on gl4 oil vs gl5 in the rear.
Drained mine as as I was pulling the bearing.
Drained mine as as I was pulling the bearing.
Offline
GL4 for Trans; GL5 for Diff. See:
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Hat tip, Michael Oritt for link.
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
Hat tip, Michael Oritt for link.
British_Recovery
Jedi Warrior
Offline
To avoid oil coming out, just jack up the appropriate side so the rear is on an angle.
OP
Deleted member 21878
Guest
Guest
Offline
i have the car on a lift. bending over kills my back anymore.
Anyway job done. well except for putting oil in and adjusting the brakes again. will do that tomorrow.
Douglass, i did check for wobble after i got the wheels back on. there was none that i could feel either 6-12 or 3-9 position. So look pretty good there.
Everything went back together pretty well. most frustrating thing was just getting the old oil seal out.
i put some sealant on the outer part of the new oil seal. helps it to slide in easier and gives a little extra seal on the edge in case of metal imperfections. not much just a very light smear. i also put the bearing in the freezer and the hub in the sun (94* here today). after a couple of hours, the bearing tapped in with very little effort.
while waiting on my new socket to arrive, i started the axle nut. figured out you can tightened it pretty well with a large pair of channel locks. much better than trying a pipe wrench sideways. handles fit between the studs and you can get a really good grip on the nut. i got it as far as i dare with that and then my socket showed up. i got a 12 pt, 2-3/16 socket. with no modifications, i could torque the nut to 75#/ft. not sure i could go much further but i could get the wrench to click before it would slip off. wondering if maybe it helped using the 2-3/16 vs the 56mm. i believe the 2-3/16 actually converts to 55.5 mm? either way this socket worked pretty well.
i did use some blue loctite on the studs for the outer hub. i cleaned them well but figured the loctite would not hurt anything. So why not. also i did not use the paper gaskets but just some sealant on the hub face.
oh a picture with the large channel locks. may as well throw a picture in and not much else worth a photo....ha
Now back to the job i was working on, which was... oh yes, my electric fan install.
Thanks again everyone for the help. the manuals just don't tell everything. funny i was reading a thread on another forum about installing a bearing/hub and not one mention about the paper gaskets.
Anyway job done. well except for putting oil in and adjusting the brakes again. will do that tomorrow.
Douglass, i did check for wobble after i got the wheels back on. there was none that i could feel either 6-12 or 3-9 position. So look pretty good there.
Everything went back together pretty well. most frustrating thing was just getting the old oil seal out.
i put some sealant on the outer part of the new oil seal. helps it to slide in easier and gives a little extra seal on the edge in case of metal imperfections. not much just a very light smear. i also put the bearing in the freezer and the hub in the sun (94* here today). after a couple of hours, the bearing tapped in with very little effort.
while waiting on my new socket to arrive, i started the axle nut. figured out you can tightened it pretty well with a large pair of channel locks. much better than trying a pipe wrench sideways. handles fit between the studs and you can get a really good grip on the nut. i got it as far as i dare with that and then my socket showed up. i got a 12 pt, 2-3/16 socket. with no modifications, i could torque the nut to 75#/ft. not sure i could go much further but i could get the wrench to click before it would slip off. wondering if maybe it helped using the 2-3/16 vs the 56mm. i believe the 2-3/16 actually converts to 55.5 mm? either way this socket worked pretty well.
i did use some blue loctite on the studs for the outer hub. i cleaned them well but figured the loctite would not hurt anything. So why not. also i did not use the paper gaskets but just some sealant on the hub face.
oh a picture with the large channel locks. may as well throw a picture in and not much else worth a photo....ha
Now back to the job i was working on, which was... oh yes, my electric fan install.
Thanks again everyone for the help. the manuals just don't tell everything. funny i was reading a thread on another forum about installing a bearing/hub and not one mention about the paper gaskets.