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#^*][%$@!broke@#$%^]^%!@brake@#&*$@!!^stud!*@##$!!

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davester

davester

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I finally got the time today to really power through getting the shocks and brakes on my MGBGT replaced and ready to roll. It was looking good until I tried to transfer the rear brake adjuster from the old incorrect backplate to the newly painted proper backplates from Tony. I put the tiniest amount of torque to the nut holding it on, and...SNAP! The stud broke off. I now have absolutely everything on the brakes complete except that I have no right rear adjuster. I tried liquid wrench and the vise on the broken off stud...it doesn't look like it's coming out.

Any suggestions? Either a way to remove the stud or a used adjuster? Although the Moss adjusters are cheap I'm a little reticent since I figure they'll be some cheap and nasty chinese imitation. Used OEM is almost always better than new imitation. Got any adjusters Tony?
 
Davester -

Although I live in HK, I am a long time Berkeley/SF guy.

Take your brake adjustor to a machine shop, there should be one west of sixth street I'm sure of it, and have them pull the broken stud out. Machine shop guys do this all the time and they have the equipment to do it. They'll probably charge you $20 & 15 minutes to do it.

If not, there's a machine shop in pacheco/concord that'll do it, same day, superfast......
 
If Alan's suggestion doesn't appear to you, try heat and candle wax. Put the adjuster in a vice and heat the junction of the stud and the adjuster body as ht as you can get it short of melting it. Touch a candle to the joint (I use the little birthday candles) and let the melted wax flow around the joint. after everything cools a bit, start rocking the broken stud back and forth to free it up. Work slowly and apply more heat and wax if it hangs up until the stud is out. $20 at the machine shop may be easier unless you like to fuss with thing like this.
Cheers,
 
I've never heard of that candle wax trick before. Since I have a torch and candles at home I'll try that out before making the trek to the machine shop. Now I just need to hope that the stud has a standard thread.
 
It should be SAE. IIRC, 1/4 NF (0.25"x28 T.P.I.).
 
Well that didn't work. I spent a good hour with a propane torch and a candle.Nothing is budging. Off to the machine shop I go.
 
Just read this thread - I'm away from full access to a computer for a few more days...I'm sure I have some on the shelf...
 
If my memory is correct. The mounting studs on rear adjusters are not threaded in, they actualy have an oval head on them and are enclosed in the casting.

Cheers Ric
 
Well that explains a lot!

Tony, I sent you an email.

Dave
 
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